Main Alpine Divide / Gallery

Main Alpine Divide. Section 15. Maritime Alps

: 649.Heading up the Ubayette valley towards the Lac du Lauzanier and the Pas de la Cavale.

: 650. looking south across the lacde Lauzanier up the highest parthg of the Ubayette valley with the Pas de la Cavale out of sight just to the right of the small puff of cloud

: 651. Some Red Deer, Cervus elaphus, which had been wallowing in the stream just above Lac du Lauzanier.

: 652. Looking SE from the Pas de la Cavale, 2700m, SE towards the Pas de Morgon, 2714m, which is right under the cloud upper centre. Out route went down to the round turquoise Lac d’Agnel, across the Salsa Moreno valley, up to the plateau with the largest Lac de Morgon (just above centre right)) to the Pas de Morgon

: 653. Looking NW from the Vallon de la Cabane across the braided Salso Moreno valley to the Pas de la Cavale, 2700m. The path came down the steep sedimentary terraces under the saddle

: 654. Looking across one of the 5-7 Lac de Morgon towards the Pas de la Cavale, which is the saddle in the middle. The cliffs we came down look vertical buut this is a foreshortened view and they were not that exposed

: 655. Looking across the upper 3 Lacs du Morgon at about 2450m with the Pas de la Cavale in the distant right. The lone larch tree is at abouut 2500m

: 656. Heading along the ridgetop on the France/Italy border between Pas de Morgon, 2714m and the Col du Fer, 2564m unseen just beyond Fiona. Centre left is the Collet de Tortisse pass between two smaller hills.

: 657.Descending the easy path from Collet de Tortisse towards the Lac Vens and the Refuge de Vens situated at the hed of the largest of the Lac Vens lakes in prime position.

: 658. Looking down the largest of the Lac Vens lakes from the terrace of the Refuge de Vens with the moon hanging over the lake just after dawn

: 659. Looking east up the largest of Lac Vens with the Refuge de Vens sitting on a rocky knoll at the far end between two waterfalls.

: 660. Looking SW from the col after Lac des Barborettes over the shepherds hut in the shade and the night compound for the sheep across the large Tinee valley to the massif between the Tinee and Var rivers

: 661. Walkiing south along the sensational Sentier de l’Electric built some 80 years ago to build two small hydroelectic plants under Lac Robuons and Lac Vens. The latter was neverbuilt but the path remains

: 662. The very pretty Lac Fer was at the high point of the diversion from the Sentier de l’Electric. It lies in a south facing cirque under Mont Tenibre, 3031m, in the miiddle of the photo.

: 663. After the diversion over the srur with Lac Fer on top the route returned to the Sentier de l’Electric path for another 4-5 km passing through a couple of tunnels to reach Refuge de Rabuons

: 664. Lac Rabuons in the the very early morning from the ascent to the south up over the west spur of Tete de Jassine.

: 665. A European Mouflon, Ovis aries musimon, running down the scree on the west spur coming down from Tete de Jassine. it was 200 metres away

: 666. The sun just about to rise over the Main Alpine Divide to the east of Lac Clapiere, which can just be seen above the path mid photo.

: 667. Heading south round the middle of the three side valleys which the path virtually contoured round between the west spur of Tete de Jassine and the knoll of Tete Gerpa. Amazingly this path was not marked on the official maps

: 668. Looking SW back up to Col the Colle Longue after the long descent on the old military track which took us down to Lago di San Bernolfo in Italy

: 669. Approaching Passo Sometta, 2209m, at the head of the smaller Vallon della Sauma, whhere we met a herd of Piiedmontese cattle

: 670.Looking south from Passo Somatta towards the Main alpine Divide and the border. The mountain is Roche du Saboule. The path from Passo del Bue to Passo Tesina goes along the bottom of the scree slopes about the sparsely forested outcrop.

: 671. Looking from the small hidden Shhangri la at the head of the Vallon di Tesina to the Passo Tesina 2400m in the middle of the ridge. The path goes up from the left under Cima di Tesina, 2460m, which is the rocky summit.

: 672. The final 200 metres or so up to Passo Tesina was on a soliid path with autumnal blueberry bushes and scattered Arollo pines beside the path.

: 673. On the ill advised, off piste, rocky descent which was a short cut from Lago di Saint Anna to the Scantuary di Saint Anna, whose roofs can been seen below

: 674. Looking back to Saint Anna Sanctuary. The Passo Tesina, 2400m which we came over to get to the Sanctuary is just out of the picture on the left

: 675. Heading SE down the gente Crete de la Lausetta at around 2300 metres rowards the Col de la Lombarde, which can just be seen slightly right of centre

: 676. Looking east across the Lac de Terre Rouge, 2452m towards the Baisse du Druos pass 2628m, which is seen in the middle of the skyline. It is the current border wityh Italy although this border has changed over the centuries.

: 677. The beautiful Lago di Valscura, 2274m is on the east side of the Baisse du Druos pass and in Italy. At the far end of the lake there was a shepherds house and a recently departed flock of sheep who had been here for the summer.

: 678. Looking west from the outflow of Lago di Valscura, 2274m towards the pass of Baisse du Druos, 2628m, which is on the jagged skyline in the centre of the photo

: 679. A section of the old paved military road between the lakes of Lago di Valscura and Lago del Claus. This road was perhaps 100 years old and built by soldiers. Refugio Emilio Questa is in the cirque just after the dark knoll in the centre right

: 680. Passing Lago del Claus, 2433m, en route to Rifugio Emilio Questa which is about half an hour way in the next cirque south

: 681. Heading up a section of paved track in Valle Morta towards Colletta del Valesco, 2430m, and the the Fremamorta lakes beyond this col

: 682. The lowest Fremamorta lake, 2359m from the Colletta de Valesco. The track which looks like the great wall of china leads up to the small red Bivacco Jacques Guiglia, on the knoll centre right. Our route went down into the valley on the left

: 683. Looking down from the Fremamorta lakes into the Gessa Valley and the meadow of Pian della Casa dei Re, centre right. The gorge and valley of Balle di Balma Guilie goes straight up from this meadow directly away from us to the col with a small peak in the middle of it.

: 684. Climbing up the steep gully from Vallone Assedras to gain the top of the buttress which we had to traverse across the top of to reach the Vallone di Balma Ghilié. The main valley below is the Gesso valley and the Colletta de Valesco pass and Fremamorta lakes are at the upper left of the photo.

: 685. Going south across the top of the buttress between the Vallone Assedras and the Vallone di Balma Ghilié. The Vallone di Balma Ghilie is straigh ahead and the gorge is down the valley to the right

: 686. Climbing up the Vallone di Balma Ghilié above the gorge which is unseen below. The buttress we had to traverse over the top of is in the cetre right. The main valley below is the Gesso valley and the Colletta de Valesco pass and Fremamorta lakes are at the upper centre left of the photo.

: 687. Looking SE from the Col du Guilié / Colle est del Mercantour, 2639m towards the pass of Baisse de Baissette, 2645m, which is seen directly above Fiona. The route up to this pass went up the grass and slab slopes just to the right of the scree. The ascent was not as steep as the photo suggests.

: 688. The enormous male ibex which Fiona nearly walked into on the Baisse de Baissette, 2645m, pass. We estimated that this ibex was a little under 200 kg and perhaps 14-15 years old.

: 689. Another ibex on the Baisse de Baissette pass. This ibex was only 7-8 years old and perhaps just over 100 kg. It let out a snort when Fionsa got too close

: 690. The stunningly beautiful Lacs Bessons lakes. These 3 lakes lay in a cirque of bare gniess with the mountain of Caire de l’Agnel, 2937m as a backdrop.

: 691. In the Vallon Sangue below the 3 Lacs Bessons there were many chamois. The chamois were a bit more nervous than the confident ibex.

: 692. There were also many ibex in the Vallon Sangue below the 3 Lacs Bessons. This ibex was about 20-22 years old and must have weighed over 150kg. It was very confident, but let out a snort and swung its formidable horns when we about 2 metres away.

: 693. On the off piste route across the boulder and scrub covered mountain side between the Vallon Sangue and the Refuge de Cougourde in the last light of the day with the gneiss monolith of Caires de Cougourde, 2921m, on the left of the picture

: 694. One of the many chamois we saw in the walk up to Pas des Ladres, 2432m. Thus one was near the side of te beautiful Lac de Trecolpas, 2150m.

: 695. Looking west back to the Lac de Trecolpas, 2150m, with the Mont Pelago, 2768m, in the background with the sun of it. Refuge de Cougourde is in the valley to the right

: 696. Our sunny lunch spot on the shortcut across the pastoral bowl beside the Vesubie stream. After lunch the GR52 path traversed up the scree slopes in the shade to the side high valley and then on to the Pas du Mont Colomb, 2548m, in the photos centre

: 697. Half way up the shaded scree slopes was a small crag to scramble up for a few metres. It was not steep but one needed hands to help get get some of the steps.

: 698. The final slopes up to Pas du Mont Colomb, 2548m, were in a side valley which became clogged with large stones.

: 699. The first 10-15 metres down the east side of Pas du Mont Colomb, 2548m, were very steep and again you needed your hands to clamber down the narrow rocky slot behind Fiona

: 700. Reaching the bottom of the cautious 400 metre descent down the east side of Pas du Mont Colomb and nearing the inviting meadows at the bottom. Unfortunately the route did not reach them but headed north before we reached them up the valley to the right

: 701. Looking across Lac de la Fous to Refuge de Nice. In the background are the 3000metre mountains which for the border and the main alpine watershed

: 702. The cold Lac Nire, 2350m, with the Pas du Nire on the skyline behind it to the south. Vallon du Mont Chamineye went off to the left out of the picture.

: 703. Looking SE from the Baisse du Basto, 2693m, pass across the upper Basto valley to the Baisse de Valmasque, 2549m pass in the middle. The distant mountain is Mont Bego 2876m.

: 704. The beautiful utopian tarn, 2550m, in the upper Basto valley. On the turf and crags surrounding the tarn were numerous ibex and chamois.

: 705. Looking south from the pass of Baisse de Valmasque, 2549m over the shangri la of the Vallée des Merveilles. The west edge Lac des Merveilles, 2294m, can just be see below the 2 tarns on the valley floor.

: 706. Looking south across the Lac des Merveilles, 2294m. The causeway of stones can be seen below the slab at the edge of the lake. This was the area there were the most petroglyphs but they were off the path and we needed to go with a guide to view them.

: 707. The petroglyph carvings on the Roche Vandalisse were from the bronze age and were typical of the carving in the area which where chipped into the rocj some 2-5 mm deep. Some wewre nearly 6000 years old. In all there were some 40,000 carvings in the entire area.

: 708. The lake of Lac Longs, 2111m, just below the the Vallee des Merveilles. Just right of centre photo is the Refuge des Merveilles which could sleep about 60 in 2 dormitories

: 709. Dawn approaching fast over Lac Longs, 2111m and the Refuge des Merveilles. In the background are the eastern ridges of the Ligurian Alps

: 710. One of the tarns just below Lac de la Muta in the first light of dawn with the mountain of Cime des Lacs, 2510m, in the background.

: 711. The Crete de l’Ortiguier as seen from the Pas du Diable, 2340m, which was just an hour from the refuge. Just out of the picture to the right was a view down to the Mediterranean Sea

: 712. Looking east down the Vallon de Cairos from Col de Raus, 1999m. The mountains in the distance are the Ligurian Alps in Italy

: 713. Looking south over the dairy of Vacherie de l’Authion,1842m to Pointe de Ventebren, 1976m, which was on the ridge south towards Mangiabo,1821m, and then down to the town of Sospel, 320m.

: 714. Looking east down the side valley of the Vallon de Fontanas from the climb up to Mont Giagiabella, 1911m, with the first of the autumn colours on the decidious trees. The valley in the middle distance is La Roya.

: 715. Looking west from Mangiabo,1821m down the side valley of Vallon de Bouissiera towards the large village of Moulinet in the main La Bevera valley. This point on the ridge is where the 1500m descent to Sospel starts.

: 716. Some of the mixed decidious woods on the descent to Sospel. Many of trees on this descend were oak and pine which could tolerate the arid south facing slope.

: 717. Approaching the town of Sospel, 320m, in the La Bevera valley after the long descent. The landscape and vegetation here was totally different to the start of the day at Reguge des Marveilles.

: 718. The Pont Vieux in Sospel. This old bridge over the La Bevera River was some 800 years old and it had a toll booth built on is parapets. The bridge was on an historic trading route between Nice and Turin.

: 719. Heading east from Sospel above the small side valley of Vallon de Sues with the homestead-like farm of St Julien. This was looking north from the climb up to Col du Razet.

: 720. Going through some of the cool decidious woods on ancient terraces on the climb up to Col du Razet. Many of the trees here were sweet chesnuts and their mast covered the ground in many place.

: 721. The large dog which followed us from the vicinmity of St Julien homestead for about 14 kilometres to half way down the final slope to Menton. He was cooling off in a drinking trough here near Col du Razet, 1033m.

: 722. After 4 months we were finally approaching the town of Menton in the centre and left of the photo. Monaco is the town in the bay on the top right

: 723. I started the walk swimming in the Danube in Vienna so it was fitting I ended the walk swimming in the Mediterranean Sea at Menton.

: 724. On the beach at Menton with Fiona, who had walked all the way from Chamonix with me for a good month. I am still in the wet underpants from the swim.

: 725. After a long walk it is always a bit difficult to adjust back to life back in the fast lane above walking speed. Murano in the Venice lagoon is the perfect staging post to make that leap back into society again and we stayed there 4 nights.

: 726. The final route was 1949 km with 117,300 metres of ascent and descent. In all it took 4 months from 18 May to 20 September 2022

Main Alpine Divide. Section 14. Cottian Alps

: 598. Going up to the Col de la Valle Etroite (Valle Stretta in Italian), 2433m, with the Refuge du Mont Thabor centre right beside the scree.

: 599. Going south down Vallee Etroite to the pastoral Plaine de Tavernette where a few brooks and springs met to form the stream in the valley.

: 600. Looking down the beautiful Vallee Etroite from the edge of the small escarpment with the hamlet of Les Granges in the meadow centre left surrounded by larch forest.

: 601. The alpine hamlet of Les Granges in the Vallee Etroite. The hamlet had 2 refuges, the lovely Magi and scruffy Terzo Alpini.

: 602. Climbing up to the Col des Acles, 2292m, and looking back north up the Vallee Etroite where Les Granges hamlet and the refuges were located near the shadow. The photos bottom right was in Italy.

: 603. The lovely cabin of Gr Giuaud in the larch forest on the climb up from Pian del Colle to Col des Acles, 2292m. this 800m climb was all in italy.

: 604. Looking south from the Col des Acles towards the slightly higher Col de Dormillouse, 2445m, situated in the shadows above the screes. There was another pass a little beyond this pass called Col de la Lauze, 2529m, out of the picture behind the triangular hill to the left of the screes

: 605. The Chalets des Acles, 1867m in the open Vallee Acles valley lay between the two main passes of the day.

: 606. Heading up the final slopes to the Col de Dormillouse, 2445m, pass where we met Seb the shepherd with his 950 sheep and assortment of dogs

: 607. Fiona with the large Pyrennean Mountain guard dog. This dog would probably not have been so friendly is the shepherd, Seb, hd not been nearby. This was on the Col de Dormillouse, 2445m.

: 608. The herd of 950 sheep on the Col de Dormillouse, 2445m. The herd were also guarded by 4 Kangal dogs from Anatolia as well as the Pyrennean Mountain dog. The Kangals are introduced to the sheep as puppies and live their entire lives in the flock. They are highly inteligent and are constantly on the look out. In this area there is a pack of wolves and the 4 Kangal would protect the sheep ftom them constantly.

: 609. Seb the shepherd on the Col de Dormillouse had 950 sheep. Here he is with a few of his herding dogs who would also alert the five 60-70 kg guard dogs should any predator approach the sheep.

: 610. Seb, his partner and myself looking at photos on my phone of the shepherds, their lifestyle, their sheep and their dogs at Ikiyaka village, Kurdistan where I spent 2 summers in the mid 1980’s. They were fascinated by the similarities with themselves

: 611. Looking south from near Col de la Lauze, 2529m, down the side valley with the Italian town of Claviere about 800 metres below. Refugio Baita Gimont is in the forests in the middle of the picture across the valley.

: 612. The chracterful Refugio Baita Gimont was in an idyllic setting in the upper larch forests beside a large pond. It was in Italy close to France.

: 613. The upper larch forest between Baita Girmont, 2030m and the pass on the Italian French border near Cima de Saurel. The yellow bushes are blueberrie bushes with their first flush of autumn colours.

: 614. Looking NW from the pass to the east of Cima de Saurel towards Mont Chaberton, 3431m across the valley with the town of Claviere. In the bottom right is the cream coloured spect of Refugio Baita Gimont, 2030m. The pass of Col de Lauze we came over yesterday is upper left.

: 615. The lovely tarn to the south of Col du Bousson, 2154m, on the Italian French border. In the distance across the Cerveyrette Valley with the forests is the northern massifs of the Queyras.

: 616. Looking up the Cerveyrette Valley to the hamlet of Les Chalps and in the far distance Les Fonts where there was the Characterful Refuge Les Fonts.

: 617. The lovely hamlet of Le Bourget, 1875m, in the Cerveyrette valley was one of the most northerly hamlets in the pastoral Queyras region

: 618. Looking down the Cerveyrette Valley from near the hamletof Les Fonts, 2040m, to the upper larch forests on the south side of the valley.

: 619. The hamlet of Les Fonts from the start of the climbup to Col de Peas. This is the view of the hamlet from the south. The refuge is on the left with the brown roof.

: 620. Heading up to Col de Peas, 2629m, (centre top) from Les Fonts, 2040m. The tall spire of Pic de Rochebrune, 3320m, is hidden in the cloud to the right.

: 621. Col de Peas, 2629m from the south before the descent to Souliers. In the side valley to the right is a large flock of 500 odd sheep and guard dogs beside a shepherds hut.

: 622. The bright larch woods on the final descent to Soulier, 1844m. Between the old trees were clusters of the bright yellow slippery jack mushroom.

: 623. The delightful hamlet of Soulier had a refuge and a gite and a very beautiful small church. It lay at 1844m and was probably the upper limit for all year farms as it was south facing.

: 624. The Gite Le Grand Rochebrune at Soulier was a characterful refuge with great food in the middle of this delightful hamlet. It was popular with hikers.

: 625. One of the pretty old houses in the hamlet of Souliers. There were about 40 buildings and a small chapel in Souliers

: 626. The hamlet of Souliers lay at about 1800m altitude which was the limit of year round farms. The farmers had to collect enough hay to see them through November and April when snows might cover the meadows, although the south facing aspect would help keep them clear longer.

: 627. The castle of Fort Queyras in the deep valley by the hamlet of Chateau Queyras was medieval dating from the 12th Century.

: 628. The small pastoral chalet at Le Pre Premier on the way up to Col Fromage made a great picnic stop.

: 629. The jagged peaks of Pointe de Rasis, 2844m formed the eastern side of the Col Fromage, 2301m, pass. This is the view of it from the north.

: 630. Contouring across the hillside from La Fontaine to Col Fromage at about 2300 metres and looking over the autumnal blueberry bushes on the mountain of Brunet, 2582m. Brunet was on the west side of Col Fromage.

: 631. Looking NW from near Col Fromage across the Combe de Queyras valley to the mountians on the edge of the National Park and beyond.

: 632. Looking up to Col del Estronques, 2651m, on the route between the villages of Ceillac and St Veran from the hamlet of Le Villard at the bottom of the descent from Col Fromage

: 633. The church at Ceillac with its characteristic Queyras sundial and its bells mounted in a thick wall rather than a square tower.

: 634. Climbing up from Peid Melezet towards Lac Mirror and looking NE over the Melezet Valley with the early morning mist clearing

: 635. Looking across the serene Lac Miirror, 2214m, towards the limestone peaks of the Crete de la Font Sancte ridge which culminate in the highest peak at 3292m, some 1000 metres above the lake.

: 636. Climbing from Lac Mirror towards Lac Sainte Anne and crossing the moraines from the departed glaciers which came down from Pic de la Font Sancte, 3292m, which is out of the picture to the right.

: 637. The beautiful turquoise Lac Sainte Anne, 2415m, was formed when the glacier which deposited the terminal moraine to form the natural dam for the lake melted leaving a vast depression. In the back fround the the Pic de la Font Sancte, 3292m.

: 638. Looking up to the Col Girardin, 2699m, which we had to cross, from just above Lac Sainte Anne.

: 639. Looking south from Col Girardin, 2699m, across the deep Ubaye Valley to the Aguille de Chamberyon massif, 3412m.

: 640. One of the very confident marmots on the descent from the Col Girardin in the lawn area at the bottom of the first section of the descent.

: 641. The latter half of the descent from Col Girardin, just after the exposed corner, looking down the Ubaye Valley. The hamlet of La Barge is just out of the pictuure on the bottom left.

: 642. A typical Queyras sundail on one of the old stone houses under a stone slab roof in the small hamlet of La Barge, 1870m.

: 643. The Pont du Chatelat bridge spanned the gorge where the L’Ubaye stream was still carving the gorge ever deeper some 150 metres below the bridge in a deep slot.

: 644. The chapel in the hamlet of Fouillouse, 1900m, in the morning before the sun had breathed some life into it. The bells were housed in a single thick wall, like they were in Ceillac, as opposed to a square bell tower.

: 645. The shepherdess at her cabin just getting ready to take her flock from their night time sanctuary up to the higher pastures. In the distance, centre left, is the first pass of the day Col de Vallonnet, 2609m.

: 646. Looking south from nesr the Shepherdess’s cabin to the mountain of Tete de la Combe, 3089m. This mountain formed the left flank of the Col du Vallonnet pass.

: 647. The wild country in the cirque between the passes of Col du Vallonnet, 2609m, and Col du Mallemort, 2558m.

: 648. The reasonably gentle descent from Col du Mallemort down to the Ubayette valley where the very small village of Larche lay. Across the valley is the northernmost massif of the Mercantour or Maritime Alps. These alps are the final section of our walk.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 13. Vanoise Alps

: 570. Looking north over the roof tops of Montchavin to the town of Bourg-St Maurice in the arterial Tarentaise Valley. Further up the valley is the Col de Petit Saint-Bernard Pass and Italy.

: 571. Looking south from the edge of the landslide area to the south of Montchavin over the villages of Piesey and Nancroix in the Ponturin valley where we want to be.

: 572. The charming bohemian hamlet of Les Lanches where there were a couple of artisanal places to sleep and a donkey sanctuary.

: 573. Looking up the Ponturin Valley above the delightful hamlet to Les Lanches to the upper meadows at the road end. The route goes up the valley and veers to the right round the corner.

: 574. Looking NW down the Ponturin Valley from the platform just as were leave the upper pastoral valley and enter the alpine zone

: 575. Looking up the upper Ponturin valley across the pastures to the south where the Lac du Plagne lake and the Refuge d’Entre le Lac lie

: 576. The Lac du Plagne lake in the upper Ponturin valley was an Idylic spot. Just beyond the far end of the lake is the Refuge d’Entre le Lac.

: 577. Looking back to the Refuge d’Entre le Lac and the Lac du Plagne lake as we start the climb up to Col du Palet, 2652m.

: 578. An obliging older marmot keeping sentry watch while the smaller marmots try to put on weight for the up coming winter’s hibernation.

: 579. Looking across the Lac du Gratteleu fringed with bog cotton. The lake lies just under the Refuge du Col du Palet which was closed due to lack of water.

: 580. The magnificent mountain of La Grande Motte, 3653m, was on the periphery of the Tignes ski area. It had a funicular railway in a tunnel up it and then a gondola at the end of the railway which went to the summit.

: 581. Heading down the Vallon de la Leisee valley between Refuge de la Liesee and Refuge Entre Deux Eaux. The enourmous scree slopes are on the south side of La Grande Casse, 3855m, the highest mountain the Vanoise

: 582. Looking back to La Grande Casse, 3855m, just after the half hour rain shower had cleared. In the bottom right are cows being driven down for the evening milking

: 583. The charming and well restored Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux was once an old summer alm and dairy. In the background is La Grande Casse.

: 584. Looking SW from the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux in the early morning with the sunrise illuminating La Dent Parrachee, 3639m.

: 585. One of the restored alm houses at the confluence of the Liesee and Rocheure streams where there was a cluster of such alms.

: 586. The alm house of La Para was built with stone walls under a heavy stone slab roof. I think this alm was used for sheep or goats rather than cows

: 587. The idyllic tarn with the Glaciers de la Vanoise in the background. For scale Fiona is walking on the path to the bottom left of the tarn.

: 588. The female ibex was alone on the small crags just to the north of Refuge de l’Arpont. Female ibex are usually in groups

: 589. Looking down into the L’Arc valley with the village of Aussois on a plateau. Modane is out of the picture to the right. In the background are the Cottian apls which is the next section.

: 590. The lovely Refuge de Plan Sec was very welcoming and served an excellant dinner. It had a great location in an alpine pasture overlooking two dammed lakes

: 591. Looking up the small stream in the early morning to the lower slopes of La Dent Parrachee as the mist clears.

: 592. Looking across the side valley where the two unseen dammed lakes are to the mountain of La Dent Parracheee, 3639m. The Refuge de Plan Sec is on the shelf to the right of the photo.

: 593. Looking SW across the L’Arc Valley to the Cottian Alps from La Barbier. Modane is unseen in the valley under the grassy ridge to the right.

: 594. One of the large Pastou dogs at La Barbier which guard the sheep from wolves and other dangers. These loyal dogs live within the flock from puppies and are fearless in their defence of the sheep.

: 595. A rare Bearded Vulture soaring over the pastorl alm of La Barbier with the glaciers of the Ecrins massif in the background.

: 596.Lookiing down on the town of Modane in the L’Arc valley with the Cottian Alps in the background. The Cottain Alps are the next section: SSection 14.

: 597. The beautiful alm of Pierre Brune in its hay meadow at about 1800m. This is were the steeper 700 metre descent to Modane starts in earnest.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 12. Mont Blanc and Beaufortain

: 533. The final slopes up to the Fenetre d’Arpette pass, 2665m to cross into the Trient valley was stewn with large boulders.

: 534. The remnants of the lower Trient Glacier clings on precariously to the bare rock. Authorities were afraid a serac would tumble off creating a flood in the stream. The reality of global warming.

: 535. Looking down the upper Trient Valley from the treeline after coming down the pass from the Fenetre d’Arpette. The Trient glacier is out of the picture on the left. In the middle upper photo is the Chalet les Grands alm above the line of cliffs.

: 536. The steep path covered in slippery slabs and concrete going up the line of cliffs to the Chalet les Grand alm, 2113m. This is the shortcut from Chalet Glacier du Trient to Col de Balme missing out Col de la Forclaz.

: 537. Looking up to the Col du Balme from the small garly path between Chalets les Grands and this col. The refuge is just seen in the saddle of the col, 2203m.

: 538. Looking down on Col de la Forclaz from the garnly path between Chalets les Grands and Col de Balme. This is on the shortcut route which misses out Col de la Forclaz.

: 539. The old restored stone cattle barns just on the NE side of the Col de Balme at the the Les Harbageres alm, 2036m.

: 540. Loking NE from the Col de Balme, 2203m, in the early morning with mist covering the entire Trient valley.

: 541. Looking SW from the Col de Balme towards Mont Blanc, 4810m. The usual way up is up the erratic Grand Couloir out of picture to the right and then up the ridgeline from the right over the Dome du Gouter (extreme right) the two exposed Les Bosses humps (centre right) to the visible summit.

: 542. Looking south from the Balcony Path on the north side of the Chamonix valley to Mont Blanc in the distance. On the left are the various Aiguilles above Chamonix with the Aiguille du Midi, 3848m, upper centre photo. It has the gondola.

: 543. Aiguille du Midi on the left with Mont Blanc centre and right. The normal route up is across the unseen unpredictable Grand Couloir over the rocky ridge on the right and then up the skyline on the snow and ice.

: 544. The Aiguille du Midi on whose sharp summit the gondola ends. This was just after the rockfall down the gully which reverberated around the valley.

: 545. Looking from near Chalet Floria before the final descent to Chamonix in the valley below. Note the Glacier des Bossons coming nearly all the way down to the valley floor for nearly 3500m of descent. The dust from the rockfall is still palling in the air an hour after the event (left)

: 546. The Aiguille Verte, 4122m, is just of the east of Chamonix on the other side of the Valle Blanc and the Mer de Glace, (out of picture to right) a huge glaciated side valley which had gouged a vast slot on the north side of the Mont Blanc Massif.

: 547. Mont Blanc, 4810m, early in the morning. The summit is centre right and the large Glacier des Bossons which used to come down to the valley floor is centre

: 548. On the steep path up through the woods to Bellevue beside the Chamonix Kandahar ski piste with runners on the gruelling TDS race coming down.

: 549. Crossing the bridge at a busy time over the torrent which emerges from under the snout of the Glacier de Bionnassay

: 550. Looking up to the Gouter Refuge on the left skyline and the Tete Rousse Refuge on the ridge below. Both refuges were closed to discourage climbers from ascending the dangerous Grand Couloir between the huts on the very left. The glacier in the middle is the Glacier de Bionnassay.

: 551. A zoomed photo of the Bionnassay glacier as it tumbles down its ice fall from the Dome Gouter high above ner the summit of Mont Blanc

: 552. Looking north towards Col de Tricot and the near pastures of Chalets de Miage (right) from the easy climb up to Chalets du Truc. It was the 600m climb up the gully to Col de Tricot which was the fnal test for the TDS race runners.

: 553. The small cosy Refuge du Truc, had a local menu and a dormitory for 20 people but it was suffering from water shortage this dry summer. It is only an hour further to Contamines.

: 554. The beautiful Notre Dame de la Gorge church at the southern end of the Contamines pastures and parkland. It was at the start of the historical route over Col du Bonhomme and on to the Aosta Valley in Italy

: 555. Looking up the beautiful valley from the top of the gorge in the upper Contamine Valley towards Refuge de La Balme in the photos centre and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, 2476m in the distance.

: 556. The old alm and dairy at Refuge de la Balme, 1706m, was half way between Contamines and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Its name is similar to a few other refuges.

: 557. Looking back down the upper Contamine valley over the miserly Refuge de la Balme on the green patch and Contamine town 10 km downstream from the climb up to Col du Bonhomme.

: 558. Col du Bonhomme, 2329m, was a 600 meter climb from the Refuge de la Balme to the saddle up pastoral grassy slopes where perhaps a flock of 1000 sheep grazed guarded by dogs.

: 559. The airy walk along the Crete de Gittes ridge was initiaklly covered in mist which soon cleared to reveal great views and many hunting kestrels.

: 560. Looking back north to the Col du Bonhomme from the southern end of the Crete des Gittes ridge across the alpine pastures of the Gitte valley.

: 561. One of ther distinctive milk cows of unknown breed found all over Beaufortain at Col de la Sauce, 2307m.

: 562. The Refuge du Plan de la Lai was undoubtedly a summer chalet originally for the artisanal dairy industry which is still thriving all over Beaufortain.

: 563. Looking back to the mobile milking unit and old stone dairy on Le Petit Berge, 2060m with the mighty Mont Blanc, 4810m, in the background to the north

: 564. Dropping down into the Coin valley with its scattering of old dairies in the alpine pastures. The upper Coin valley is above the forested headwall and the Col du Bresson, 2469m, is to the left of the tower on the left.

: 565. A large herd of the unknown breed of milk cows found all over Beaufortain gathered on a pasture peacefully chewing cud. It was just at the base of the climb up to Col du Bresson.

: 566. The upper Ormente valley with the modern Refuge de Presset, 2514m, and the Aiguille de la Nova, 2893m in the background. Our route was the other direction down stream.

: 567. Loooking down the Ormente valley from the Refuge de Balme. This valley folwws into the larger arterial Val d’Isere at the bottom. To the south of the Val d’Isere is the Vanoise which is the next section.

: 568. One of the slpendid farmhouses of Valezan, where there were about 50 such houses. On each side and the back there were stone wall but the from was wodden with alcoves and balconies. Most strikiing was the enourmous open attic with massive timbers holding the huge roof with massive eaves up.

: 569. Looking down of the village of Bellentre from near Valezan in the Val d’Isere valley which marked the south edge of the Beaufortain. Beyond it to the right is the Vanoise massif, Section 13 of the Main Alpine Divide walk

Main Alpine Divide. Section 11. Valais Alps

: 477. The flat undulating landscape of moraine between Simplon Pass and Inneri Nanzlicke pass on a misty morning. Inneri Nanzlicke pass on the closer ridge centre left.

: 478. Looking at Bististafel dairy in the Gamsatal side valley between Nanzlicke Pass and Gibidum Pass which is on the skyline above the dairy.

: 479. Looking from near Gibidum pass over the hamlet of Reidji (bottom centre right) and then up the Mattertal valley with the 4000m peaks on its west side. Further up this valley is Zermatt and the Matterhorn

: 480. The village of Gspon lies high on the east side of the Saastal valley below. Further up the valley is Sass Fe. The peak is Balfrin, 3796m.

: 481. The Pension Alpenblick was superbly appointed in the beautiful vilage of Gspon. Athough it catered for walkers it also had a pub like atmosphere with many locals dropping in for beer with its jovial host

: 482. Lookiing acoss the deep Saastal valley to the mountains of Balfrin, 3796m. It is the the most northerly of big mountains on the vast ridge which runs south culminating in the Dufourspitze, 4632m, the 2nd highest in the Alps

: 483. A distinctive Valais “Neznoir” or “Blacknose” sheep, with two lambs in the alpine summer hamlet of Chleebode below Gspon

: 484. The cluster of summer farms at Chleebode were all in geat condition. The haylofts were already full of hay. Note the food barn on its stradle stone to prevent rodents

: 485. Looking east from the hot climb up the west side of the Saastal valley to the meadows of Gspon in the upper centre left and Chleebode centre right with the irrigated green patch

: 486. Looking over the roofs of some of the houses of the tourist town of Grachen up the Riedgletscher to Lenzspitze, 4294m, above St Niklaus

: 487. Coming down into St Niklauus from Grachen. The big valley is the Mattertal and it leads up to the town of Zermatt and the mountains of the Dufourspitze and the Matterhorn none of which can be seen. The highest mountain visible here is the Weisshorn, 4506m.

: 488. Looking north from the beautiful summer alm hamlet of Jungen, 1955m, up the Mattertal valley. St Niklaus in in the bottom left. In the distance is the headwall of the Mattertal valley on the main Valais ridge leading up to the Dufourspitze on the left. Top centre right is the sharp peak of Brunegghorn with the Weisshorn behind it.

: 489. Looking over the lush meadows of Jurgen summer hamlet at 1955m and up the Mattertal valley. On the left is Lenspitze and Dom, on the right is Weisshorn and at the end of the valley is the Breithorn to Dufourspitze complex. All these are well over 4000m

: 490. Looking up the Mattertal valley from above Jurgen to the enormous range of mountains at its head from the Breithorn centre right, 4164m, to Dufourspitze, left, 4634m. The Matterhorn would be to the right of this range just out of sight

: 491. Negotiating the boulderfield which was about 3 km long to reach the easier ground in the Augstbord high valley. The Augstbordpass, 2894m is the saddle in the centre

: 492. A herd of milk cows sitting down enjoyed a slight breeze in the afternoon sun by Oberstafel alm juust at the start of the descent to Gruben.

: 493. The hamlet of Gruben in the Turtmanntal valley. The Turtmanntal valley did not penetrate that far into the main Valais massif like its adjacent valleys before the 4000m mountains blocked it.

: 494. The climb up from Turtmanntal valley to Meidpass went past the Meide alm which was split between the lower and upper hamlets of Mittalstafel (shown here)and Oberstafel

: 495. Between the Meide alm and the Meidpass, 2790m was the beautiful apline lake of Meidsee, 2661m,

: 496. The Weisshorn seen from near Meidpass. The Weisshorn, 4506m, is one of ther best known mountaiins from the Valais Alps.

: 497. In the Combavert side valley between the Meidpass and the huge valley of Val d’Anniviers. There were hundreds of cows on these pastures. The Hotel Weisshorn is out of sight at the top of the track center right

: 498. Looking up the Val de Zinal valley from above it. It is one of two valleys the Val dAnniviers forks into. At its head are a range of 4000m peaks including Zinalrothorn, 4221m, left and Dent Blanche, 4357m centre right. In the distance just left of centre is the top of the Matterhorn, 4478m.

: 499. On the descent to Zinal with a handfull of the 6100 runners who had taken part in the 31 km Sierre to Zinal enduurance race with 2100m of ascent. They have just 2 km of downhill to go now to Zinal in the valley. The big mountain centre left is Dent Blanche, 4357m

: 500. On the outskirts of Zinal lookiing above the forest into the upper Zinal valley with Besso, 3668m, on the left blocking the view to 4000m peaks and Dent Blanche on the right, 4357m.

: 501. The top of the Matterhorn showing itself in the early morning sun from the slopes on the climb from Zinal up to Col de Sorebois. IIt is probably 20 kilometres to the south.

: 502. A younger marmot from this years litter had its burrow on the piste down from the Col de Sorebois, 2836m. During the winter it will hibernate while thousands of skiers go just above it, both unaware of each other.

: 503. Looking up the artificial Lac de Moiry towards the main Valais ridge. The two largest mountains are the Grand Cornier, 3962m, which is just to the left of Dent Banche, 4357m, (just left of centre). The lac is turquuoise becauuse of the glacial sediments.

: 504. Some of the Heren breed of cattle at the meadow at Beplan alm. This breed has a natural instinct to establish a pecking order by tusslings with each other and farmers have taken that instinct to have competitions called “Reine de Reine des Herens”. “The Queen of Queens of the Herens”

: 505. Looking down to Les Hauderes in the Val d’Herens from Mayens du Cotter, 2058m. At Les Hauderes the Val d’Herens splits with the main branch going SE (left of pic) and Val d’Arolla going SW (right of pic).and the main Valais ridge beyond.

: 506. A typical hayloft in the string of rural hamlets from Villaz through La Sage and onto to Les Hauderes. The red fan and duct is used to load the loft by blowing the grass into the top of it throuugh the duct.

: 507. Hotel des Hauderes was perhaps the biggest building in the village. It had a large extention to the front but the original building to the back from 1876 is still there in the typical Val d’Herens style with stone on the uphillside and wood below.

: 508. Looking back down the Val d’Arolla valley to Les Hauderes (lower centre) from the walk up to La Gouille where I turned off to go up to Lac Bleu

: 509. Lac Bleu was exceptionally clear and had a blue tint to it. It was about 45 minutes climb up from Le Gouille in the Val d’Arolla valley.

: 510. The mountain Pigne d’Arolla, 3787m, looms above the small town of Arolla. The mountain is quiet easy to ascend in winter tiime on skis from the other (south side) up the Brenay Glacier.

: 511. Looking west from the foot of the Pigne d’Arolla mountain up the alpine valley which leads to the Pas de Chevres, 2854m. which is just to the right of the visible saddle.

: 512. Looking west from the Pas de Chevres across the lower static part of the Glaciier de Chelion to the Cabane de Dix, 2928m, which is on a knoll just left of centre.

: 513. Looking NW from the Pas de Chevres down the 4 sections of very strong ladders. Beyond is the shallow lake at the end of the glacier and in the distance is the Lac des Dix which is a large resevoir

: 514. The snout of the Clacier de Chelion was easy to cross but getting down onto the glacier and up the other side on the loose moraines was difficult. As was crossing the stream on the surface.

: 515. The stream on the surface of the Glacier de Chelion was at least a metre wide and half that deep. It had carved a furrow into the glacier surface which was sometimes 2 metres deep and that was difficult to cross. The mountain ahead is Mont Blanc de Chelion, 3870m.

: 516. Looking up the Glacier de Chelion from the Cabane de Dix to its accumulation zone between the mountains of Pigne d’Arolla (left) and Mont Blanc de Chelion (right)

: 517. Cabane de Dix (centre left) sits ontop of a knoll overlooking the Glacier de Chelion. Its position is quite otherworldy in an ocean of ice and stones.

: 518. Two ibex from the herd of about 8 grazing on a ridge between Cabane de Dix and Lac des Dix The glaciier topped mountain in the background is Le Pleureur, 3704m.

: 519. Looking south over Lac des Dix and Pigne d’Arolla in th distance from the Col des Roux, 2803m.

: 520. Looking south from the Col de Prafleuri, 2965m, to the Glacier Praflueri whose moraine was taken to build the Dix Barrage dam. On the extreme left is the pervious Col des Roux.

: 521. In the glacial wasteland of moraine between the Col de Praflueri (behind) and the next pass of Col de Louvie, 2921m. (ahead)

: 522. Looking back to the Col de Louvie from the balcony path above the alpine Louvie valley on the right. The Col de Louvie is centre left. The path descends to the valley soon after this place.

: 523. On the balcony path high above the classic hanging valley of Louvie valley with The Grand Combin, 4134m, to the left in mist and the Petit Combin, 3668m, centre right. The lake is Lac de Louvie, 2214m.

: 524. One of the 4 large male ibex I saw on the descent from the balcony path down to the Lac de Louvie in the high valley.

: 525. Looking across the roof of the restored cattle barn to Lac de Louvie with the Cabane de Louvie sitting on a knoll just right of centre. In the distance is the Combin massif. To the left in the pasture were about 15 grazing ibex.

: 526. Looking across the void of the Val des Bagnes to the Petit Combin, 3668m, in the early morning just after leaving Cabane de Louvie.

: 527. Looking across the deep U shaped Val de Bagnes to the sunny slopes where Cabane Brunet and beyond it Cabane Col de Millie, 2474m, lies on the distant ridge.

: 528. On the descent from Cabane de Louvie to Fionnay in the valley the path goes along some safe but exposed sections with a fantastic view over to the Petit and Grand Combin ahead.

: 529. Looking east across the deep Val de Bagnes to the mountains around Cabane Louvie on the other side. This picture was taken near Cabane Brunet before the mist enveloped all.

: 530. The high plateau with some alpine pastures to the north of Col de Millie briefly appeared in a gap in the mist

: 531. La Petite Erra alm with its barn and old stone house in meadows riven with centuries old grazing tracks on th eother side of the ravine on the descent to Liddes

: 532. The village of Somlaproz, 968m, where the climb to Champex starts. High above it is the small cosy hamlet of Prassurny.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 10. Gottard and Leone Alps

: 438. The old church at Sommascona with its bell tower with 4 bells and wheels protruding out of the portals.

: 439. The hamlet of Onceda with its old agricultural houses rising up from a corner of the lush meadow. Some of these summer farms were now homes.

: 440. The extensive meadow above Dotra had already been harvested for its hay. Its slopes were peppered with trees as it climber to the small pass of Cross Potera ahead.

: 441. Looking back to the two adjacent passes with Passo delle Columbe on the left (north) and Passo del Sole on the south. Between then is the craggy Pizzo Columbe, 2544m.

: 442. Looking down Alpe Cararescio towards Capanna Cadagno and the Lago Cadagno lake on the centre right where the Alpe di Piora dairy is located.

: 443.The rosebay willow herbs were prolific around the disturbed ground near the dairy at Lago Cadagno. Bees were busy visiting the flower spikes.

: 444. The small square in the charming village of Atlanca high above the arterial Valle Leventina valley.

: 445. Looking NE from the summer hamlet of Culisco across the Valle Leventina valley. On the other side just centre right is the side valley with Lago Ritom up it and centre picture is the quite road between Altanca and Madrano.

: 446. The beautiful larch forest on the alm track between Persicum and Alpi di Cristalinna. This track connected a number of alm at the treeline.

: 447. The herd of some 30 grey brown milk cows arriving at the Alpi di Cristalinna having been driven down from the meadow above by the dairy woman.

: 448. Looking up the side valley of Val Torta which led from the Alpi di Cristallina and climbed some 800 metres to the Capanna Cristallina hut.

: 449. The Capanna Cristallina hut sat on the saddle of a high pass over the Leone Alps. From a distance it looked like a shipping container buut it was large modern and rectangular close up.

: 450. Looking east in the early morning with the sun rising over the nearby Passo del Naret and distant Adula Alps from the Capanna Cristallina

: 451. Looking NE early in the morning from Capanna Cristallina down the Val Torta side valley which I climbed up last nigh to reach the modern hut.

: 452. The two 200 kg male Ibex who were reluctant to move off the path when I approached. As I passed they put on a show of strength and butted each other.

: 453. Looking west towards the mountain of Basodino, 3272m in the early morning. The glacier on top has shrunk hugely in the last 50 years as the clean brown mountainside shows.

: 454. The high alpine Velletta di Fiorina valley leading up from the hideous Robiei area towards the Bocchetta di Val Maggia pass, 2635m (centre right) on the Swiss/Italian border.

: 455. Looking back up to the Bocchetta di Val Maggia pass, 2635m, from the Italian side. Beyond the top of the grassy lip is a boulder strewn bowl with the actual pass beyond in the main saddle.

: 456. Heading up the alpine Vallone Nefelgui valley to the Passo di Nefelgui which is the U shaped saddle in the centre.

: 457. Looking down the easy grassy slopes to the Lago Vannino. The Rifugio Margaroli is hidden from view at this end. The afternoons pass, Scatta Minoia is up the slopes across the lake and centre of picture.

: 458. The busy Alpe Forno which had a few people working at it. It also did some Agriturismo to the passing walkers. The small red truck had to negotiate the difficult track with churns of milk.

: 459. The beautiful shallow lake with the slabs and boulders visible at the bottom of the clear water and the impressive backdrop of jagged peaks 800 metres above it.

: 460. The lovely old restored hamlet of Crampiolo consisted of about 20 traditional houses and 3 larger barns which were now restaurants. The hamlet had a stream running through it.

: 461. The beautiful and tranquil Alpe Devero was probably a glacial lake which had since been filled in with stones and silt. It was very lush and watered by a few meandering streams.

: 462. The characterful Pensione Fattorini on the edge pf the village of Alpe Devero was quite simple and honest inside. I stopped here for an ice cream after the ostentatious Casa Fontana dinner.

: 463. The lovely hamlet on the western edge of the Alpe Devero meadow comprised of about 15 houses, all off which were under a heavy stone roof.

: 464. The lovely dairy at Alpe Misanco seemed a happy and tranquil place with about 20 cows grazing nearby and a herd of about 40 goats wandering about the adjacent meadow.

: 465. Looking NE from the climb up to Passo d’Orogna back down the larch forest I had climbed up with Alpe Devero just centre left hidden in the valley and yesterday’s pass of Scatta Minoia above it on the ridgeline.

: 466. A sentry marmot who let me get very close before he disappeared into his burrow under a large stone. I think he was quite relaxed because a herd of sheep and goats had just passed nearby and did him no harm.

: 467. A herd of milk cows in the upper part of the meadow in the Buscagna valley not far from Passo d’Orogna pass. These content cows had udders covered in veins to help milk production.

: 468. The serene meadows in the Pian du Scricc, 1933m. This meadow seemed to be a place for mountain brooks to gather. In the distance is Monte Leone, 3553m and the Chaltwasserpass, 2770m to the right of it. Alpe Veglia was a kilometre downstream.

: 469. Looking across the gorgeous Alpe Veglia to Monte Leone rising on the other side from the terrace of the homely and friendly Rifugio Citta di Arona hut. On the left hand side is one of 3 summer hamlets.

: 470. Looking up the Chaltwasserpass, 2770m, from Alpe Veglia. The route goes up to the smaller buttresses on the right, traverses under them and then climbs with a few metal steps and chains up the steep gully to the left and above the larger buttress in the centre of the pass.

: 471. The very active dairy just below the Rifugio Citta di Arona. It sold some of it produce to the passing public.

: 472. Looking up the east side of the Chaltwasser pass, 2770m. Tge route goes to the right of the cascade centre right. Then zig-zags with chains to the left of the light rock above the top cascade. Then traverses left to the gully with cloud behind and then up steeply on iron rungs to the top of the gully.

: 473. The airy traverse across the top of the crags (centre bottom) to the steep face in the gully where the bent rungs and chains are to get to the pass.

: 474. Looking down one of the streams of glacial meltwater from the glacier on Monte Leone with Simplon Pass below and some of the Valais Alps in the distance

: 475. Looking over to the Bernese Oberland from above Simplon Pass. All these mountains are around 4000m. The enourmous Aletscher Glacier can just be seen as a white speck well below all the others centre left of photo.

: 476. The vast edifice of Simplon Hospiz was initially commisioned by Napoleon in 1801. It is about 100 metres long and I estimate it has over 1000 tons of stone slabs on the roof.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 09. Oberhalbstein and Adula Alps

: 407. Looking north to the small town of Maloja. On the left is the lake and on the right is the valley leading down to Italy. The vast Maloja Palace Hotel is just visible in the centre left

: 408. The beautiful Lagh dal Lunghin near the top of the first and biggest climb of the day to the Pass Lunghin, 2644m

: 409. The major triple watershed on Pass Lunghin. If the bowl at the top was filled the water in one slot would end up in the Black Sea, Another in the North Sea and the third in the Mediterrenean Sea. For the hydrologist this would be much more significant than the border of 3 artificial countries

: 410. The yellow saxifrage, Saxifraga aziodes, was prolific on the higher more gravel strewn slopes today

: 411. Looking down from the last pass today, Forcellina 2671m, to the upper Avers valley and the extensive pastures of Juferalpa where the hamlet of Juf lay in the photos centre

: 412. The Alpenrose Gasthaus in the hamlet of Juf was a traditional house under a heavy stone roof as most of the houses in the hamlet had.

: 413. Looking back to the hamlet of Juf from the path on the west side in the morning sun

: 414. The Swiss French team of 3 fathers and 4 sons who I had overtaken and undertaken for the last week. The were section hiking the Via Alpina trail and were good company.

: 415. A variety of Willow Gentian, Gentiana asclepiadea, which I came across growing at the edge of some of the cut meadows in the Avers Valley

: 416. The beautiful larch woods on the track on the west side of the valley opposite the quaint hamlet of Cresta

: 417. The deep gorge at near the meeting of the 3 rivers a good kilometre above the hamlet of Innerferrera. The old road followed the gorge here and it was a delight to follow it.

: 418. From Ausserferrera there is a good climb up to Nurseraalm, over the ridge and then down to Schwarzalm pictured here

: 419. Looking across Sufnersee to the village of Sufers on the north side of the lake which is dammed.

: 420. Walking down the alm road through the hay meadows and lofts to the characterful and busy town of Splugen, where there were hotels, cafes, a bakery and a small supermarket

: 421. The small farming hamlet of Medels lay between the town of Splugen and the village of Nufenen. It had about 8-10 farms.

: 422. The lovely old village of Hinterrhein dated back to the black death. It was full of traditional farms most of which still made cheese. he building in the foreground is the village restaurant which had a cellar full of maturing cheeses

: 423. Agnes Trepp had a barn for the goats to spend the night which had a balcony. The 30 goats slept under the milking platform. At milking time they were enticed onto the plaatform with food and then looked into position while they ate and were milked with the vacuum bucket.

: 424. The 5 kids were in a stall of their own. They were fed from a bucket with semicircle of teats emerging from its lower egde. It did not take long for the fire kids to empty the bucket

: 425. a typical hayloft for this region had 4 massive pillars at each corner to hold the roof up.. The roof alone might weigh as much as 30-40 tonnes with its think stones. Underneath was usually somme cow stalls.

: 426. The top of the Valserbarg pass, 2502m. I had hoped and expected the pass to be a lot more dramatic than it was

: 427. Looking down the Peil valley from the alp near Zum Hirt. The town of Vals is round the curve of this pastoral valley with its very steep meadows

: 428. The beautiful town of Vals was very traditional and all the housed were under the roofs of thick slabs of stone. A typicl gouse would have about 80-100 tonnes of stone on its roof alone.

: 429. The main square in the town of Vals had a couple of expensive hotels and restuarants, the town hall and a lovely old church.

: 430. One of the summer farms on the north side of the Valsertal valley as I approached the Zervellasee lake

: 431. Looking up the Lantatal valley as I headed up it. The buildings in the foreground are the Lampertsghalp resturant and dairy. The route up Oasso Soreda is to the right of the green rounded mountain centre left

: 432. Loookiing up the Lantatal valley to the highest poiint in the range Adula Rheinwaldhorn, 3347m, with the glacier flowing down its northern flank.

: 433. Looking back down the Lantatal valley from the lip of the climb up to Passo Soreda with the Lampertschalp on the flooor of the valley. Zervrellasee is just round the corner below

: 434. The steep loose descent on the west side of the Passo Soreda into the canton of Ticino. Out of sight round the corner is the meadow and spring where I stopped for lunch

: 435. The shepherds house in the pastoral U shaped valley to the west of Passo Soreda and just before the descent down to Lago d Luzzone

: 436. One of the old haylofts and summer building which had been converted into holiday accommodation between the dam at Lago di Luzzone and the village of Campo in the valley

: 437. The sensational old road which was carved into the side of a cliff in the gorge which leads down to the green fields of Olivone in the centre distance.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 08. Ortler, Livingo & Bernina Alps

: 356. The northern gate to the fortress town of Glurns. To give a scale the gate was just wide enough for a large bus to get through. The wall extended righ round the town in a square with a gate on each side

: 357. Starting to climb up the Vinschgau valley side towards Lichtenberger Hofe and looking back to the town of Mals across the valley floor.

: 358. One of the old farms of Lichtenberger Hofe which managed to survive on the steep hillside covered in meadows.

: 359. A larch tree near Obere Stilfser Alm which had been struck by lightening. The sap in the xylem vapourised so quickly it exploded shards of wood a metre long across the grass from the side the lightening hit

: 360. The old alm house at Obere Stilfser Alm has now been converted to a hikers refuge and the Intere Stilfser Alm has taking over all the dairy enterprises

: 361. Herding the 77 milkcows out of the pastures around Stilfser Alm to the diary for the evening’s milking.

: 362. The 77 cows were coralled at Intere Stilfser Alm and just let into the milking parlour 7 at a time as that was the number of milking bays were the cows were given nutritional pellets as they were being milked

: 363. Separating the goats into groups according to ownership so they could be milked separately in the goats milking parlour

: 364. The goats were milked with teats attached to a vacuum bucket. They only had 2 teats to milk. While they were being milked they had pellets to eat

: 365. The goats eating their pellets while they were were being milked. Each goat would produuce about a litre of milk a day.

: 366. Zirbenschnapps. This cherished liquor is made from the pine cones of the Arolla Pine (top left). Which are sliced and then infused in vodka with a bit of sugar added to them.

: 367. The early morning sun illuminating the centuries old tradition of summer farming at the alm ((transhumance). The cow are already leaving the dairy after the morning milking.

: 368. A pair of kestrels were just finding enough lift in the early morning air currents to circle up and find a meal

: 369. Lookiing across the Trafoiertal valley to the giants of the Ortler Apls with Ortler, 3905m on the left and Giesterspitze, 3467m, on the right.

: 370. Ortler, 3907m, was the biggest mountain I had passed so far on the trip and was capped by a crevassed glacier

: 371. The central mountaiins of the main Ortler ridge were a jumble of peaks rising from the glaciers on the north side of the massif. The highest peak here was Giesterspitze, 3467m.

: 372. The Malga di Forcola was in the arid high Forcola valley which led down to the east end of lakes above the town of Valdidentro.

: 373. A motorised scythe with the spiked wheels so they can be pushed across very steep slopes, almost 40 degrees at times, to cut the hay meadows.

: 374. Once the had is cut and dried it is buldozed into piles at the back of a special vehicle which scoops it up on a conveyor into the cage at the back and then transports it off to the hayloft to unload

: 375. Looking across the Valle Viola valley to the Cima de Piazzi, 3439m, with its glaciers on the north face.

: 376. One of the beautiful alm houses in an abandoned dairy which has been converted into liesure accommodation

: 377. Looking up at Cima Viola, 3374m, from the dairy at Baita Caricc where the cows were relaxing in the nearby pasture waiting for the late afternoon milk.

: 378. The Rifugio Valle Viola siits like a New Mexico ranch house beside the azure waters of a small lake

: 379. Looking west from the Passo Viola into Switzerland. The lake is the Swiss Lago da Valle Viola. In the far distant on the right is the the huge glaciated massif of Piz Bernina with its 4000m peak

: 380. The idyllic alm house beside the Swiss Lago da Valle Viola. Beside the house wasa coral where the suckling calves were separated from their mothers.

: 381. The serene Lago da Saoseo was surrounded by larch and swiss pine and then a semi circle of peaks on the Italian/Swiss border.

: 382. Having crossed the busy main road in the Val Poschiavo valley and about to head down to the farming hamlet of Angeli Custodi, centre bottom.

: 383. Approaching Poschiavo town from the north with its multiple church towers, monastery and old streets.

: 384. One of the quiet narrow streets of centuries old Poschiavo town leading towards the bustling main square with its hotels and cafes.

: 385. Looking back down to Poschiavo from the start of the climb up to the lovely hamlet of Selva

: 386. Heading up the path to Selva through the hazel trees on what I though was once an old alm or drove road as it was cobbled with rough stones

: 387. The idyllic hamlet of Selva with its 4-5 farms and two chaples (left of pic) spreadout on a lush shoulder on the mountainside above the Val Porschiavo valley below on the left

: 388. The alm house and summer dairy at Alpe Cancian lay at about 2100 meters just below the tree tine.

: 389. Alpe Cancian lay in a well watered bowl at the treeline and hosted about 15 milk cows and a few bullocks and heifers

: 390, The glacial torent which drained the glacier on the north side of Pizzo Scalino into a boulder strewn alpine valley which was slowly getting covered in turf and flowers

: 391. Looking from Passo di Campagneda towards the lower slopes of Biz Bernina, 4049m, which were covered in icefields.

: 392. Looking north from the knoll to the south of Rifugio Ca Runcasch towards Piz Bernina, Not only was the summit lost in the clouds but the visible foothills blocked the view to the summit

: 393. Lookiing west from Rifugio Ca Runcasch towards Monte Disgrazia perhaps 20 km away where a thunderstorm was brewing

: 394. Looking west from Rifugio Ca Runcasch down to the small Agriturismo business just below with Monte Disgrazia in the distance in clear weather

: 395. The charming alm of Alpe Compascio, where there wasa group of abouut 30 horses on the meadow which was riddled with clear and silty streams

: 396. Some of the stone huts in the idyllic Alpe Campolungo at the saddle and near the top of the ski lift. Its cows were grazing on the ski pistes

: 397. Looking west from the saddle between Monte Motta and Monte Roggione down to the west fork of Val Malenco when the village of Chiareggio lies.

: The lovely agriturismo business of Malga Rundai near Lago Palu which served me simple but delicious food from their own dairy next door

: 399. Some of the lovely stone summer farm houses, barns and haylofts at the hamlet of Il Barchetto. In the background is the valley with Chiareggio and beyond that Monte Disgrazia, 3648m.

: 400. At the start of the climb up to the Passo del Muretto from Chiareggio village there was a wonderful to Monte Disgrazia, 3678m.

: 401. There are many small alms with stone houses and barns and one with this tiny shed for sheep ot goats. In the background is Monte Disgrazia, 3678m.

: 402. Lookiing back to Monte Disgrazia with the alm of Alpe Vazzeda on the west side of the valley with its scattered summer houses and small barns.

: 403. Having descended the north side of Passo della Muretto for an hour you suddenly reach a viewpoint down the valley to Malojapass.

: 404. Looking back up the Val Forno valley to the Passo della Muretto

: 405. On the Lago da Cavloc just above Maloja there were a lots of tufted ducks. This mother had 8 chicks who were already diving well for 15 seconds until they poopped up like a brown ping-pong ball.

: 406. Just to the south of the town of Majola was a small alternative holiday centre at a converted farm called Salencia. It is just below the centre of the photo.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 07. Oztal Alps

: 325. Heading out of Solden having climbed up under the ziz-zags under the ski gondola and now heading towards Gaislachalm above Ventertal valley

: 326. Looking back down into Otztal valley and the town of Solden from the path half way between Solden and Gaislachhalm

: 327. One of the sun darkened alm houses at Gaislachalm. Over the decades the sun slowly darkens the logs into a rich dark golden colour

: 328. Looking SW from the balcony of Alpengasthaus Gaislachalm up the deep narrow Ventertal valley who valley floor was only winde enough in a few places to allow agriculture.

: 329. Alpengasthsus Gaislachalm was in a cluster of 3 guesthouses at the start of Ventertal valley. This one had a well stocked trout pond.

: 330. Thistles lines the grassy track after Gaislachalm and every one was covered in bees, beetles or flies trying to burrow into the flowhead to the sweet nectar beneath

: 331. Looking back to the Stubai Alps from the track above Gaislachalm. The mountain to the right of the largest glaciier is Zuckerhutl, 3507m, the highest in the range.

: 332. Looking from the balcony path high on the sunny north side of Ventertal down onto the town of Vent and up the alpine Neidertal side valley beyond.

: 333. An eagle soaring below me seen from the balcony path above Ventertal valley between Gaislachalm and the Breslauerhutte. The raging glacial torrent below is the river in the Ventertal valley

: 334. Looking south across Ventertal to Schalfkogel, 3540m, and the Diemferner glacier

: 335. Looking up Rofental valley, another of the side valleys meeting at the town of Vent to Hochjoch pass on the right and Fineilspitze, 3516m on the left, where Otzi was found.

: 336. Entering Vernagtal side valley where the Vernagthutte and the meteorological are with the dark Keesselwandspitze, 3414m, rising above all.

: 338. A field of the yellow thistles growning in damp rocky grouns beside the glacial torrent of the Vernagtbach stream just below the meteorological station

: 339. Looking back up the Vernagtal side valley to the Grosser Vernagtferner glacier and the 3400-3500 meter peaks around it

: 340. Looking up the 5 km longg Hiinterferner glacier from above Hochjochhospiz hut. Weisskogel, 3739m, the second highest Otztal mountain is in the distant centre.

: 341. The Hochjoch Hospiz hut in the early morning sun sitting on the north side of the Rofental valley

: 342. The Mossy Saxifrage, Saxifraga bryoides, thrives on the south facing rocky slopes of the upper Rofental valley and there were clumps of it everywhere

: 343. At the Hochjoch pass, 2861m, looking east across the siltly lake to Fineilspitze, 3516m on whose upper glaciated slopes the 5000 year old Otzi was found.

: 344. Lookiing west from Hochjoch pass towards the 3400 ish meter Saldurkamm ridge which radiates south from the Wiesskugel massif. In the left valley is Kurzras and centre right is the Bildstockljoch pass, 3097m. The second pass of the day.

: 345. Looking west from the top of the fragile Bildstockljooch pass, 3097m, after the 1000 meter climb. In the far distance are the Ortler and Livigno Alps and Piz Bernina very distant almost lost in the haze

: 346. The steep descent down to the Oberetteshutte from the fragile Bildstockljoch pass had some trickier sections but all well protected with cables where necessary.

: 347. The very friendly Oberetteshutte sits on a spur to the west of the Wiesskogel-Saldurkamm ridge at the very head of the Matschertal valley

: 348. The meadows of Innere Matscheralm where ringing out with cowbells from at least 100 cows on the lush valley floor

: 349. Looking up the Matschertal valley from my level footpath beside the irrigation channel whch ran along the north side for about 6 km

: 350. The beautiful village of Matsch as viewed from near the end of the irrigation channel with the Ortler Alps glisteniing in the background the otherside of the enormous fertile Vinschgau valley

: 351. Looking NW down to the town of Mals sitting on the floor of the arterial Vinschgau valley with its fields and orchards

: 352. The centre of Mals in the Vinschgau valley had a medieval feel to it with its old churchs, towers and huge monastery on the hill above it.

: 353. One of the large farms in the middle of Mals with its tower, which might have belonged to a church of a status symbol for the farm.

: 354. The old round tower of the fortification is still solid but the castle walls are in ruins. Beside it is the main church and to the right a tower on attached to a farm

: 355. The long terrace of the cafe overlooking the main square of Mals. Here they servered the best coffee I have tasted.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 06. Stubai Alps

: 300. The miniture chapel by the Humlerhof at Nosslach was only about 5 metres in length. A lot of the larger farms had their own tiny chapels

: 301. The Larchenwiesenweg track contoured the hillside passing small meadows and haylofts all set in beautiful larch woods

: 302. Climbing up the grassy shelf between Kastnerbergalm and Gstreinjochl pass, which is just before the mountain of Tribulaun, 3097m.

: 303. Looking down the Obernbergtal valley from near the Gstreinjochl pass. In the distance are the mountains of the Tuxer and Zillertal Alps

: 304. Approaching the Gstreinjochl pass with the vertical faces and scree fields of Tribulaun in the background looking like a Dolomite mountain

: 305. At the Gstreinjochl pass, with the valley of Obernbergtal on the left and Gschnitztal on the right. The Tribulaunhutte is down the steep grassy slopes on the right.

: 306. The west ridge of Tribulaun rises steeply from the Sandesjochl pass. Tribulaunhutte lies left outside the photo and below the scree slopes

: 307. The ibex at Sandesjochl pass. One can judge the age of an Ibex by counting the ridges on its horns. So this one is about 15 years

: 308. Looking down the Gschnitztal valley with a bunch of alpine blue sow thistle in the foreground

: 309. Looking up the Hintersimming valley from near the bridge over the stream with the lush meadow in the filled in lake in the middle distance

: 310. The 120 year old Bremerhutte lies beside a small tarn in the alpine Hintersimming valley. Its rich brown colour comes from sun darkened wooden shingles covering the walls

: 311. Looking back to Bremerhutte which is just visibile on the knoll under the mist. The valley in the centre is Am Hintersimming with the lush meadows below and the recently exposed moraine filled valley higher up.

: 312. Descending the steep headwall with some cable protection after the Simmingjochl pass enroute from Bremerhutte to Numbergerhutte

: 313. A female Ptarmigan herding a group of 8 small chicks (only 3 visible here) through the grass and scrub just above Grunausee lake between Numbergerhutte and Sulzenauhutte. I was surprised she never feigned injury to distract me

: 314. The good weather view from the slopes above Grunausee lake to Wilder Freiger, 3418m, one of the highest peaks in the Stubai Alps

: 315. The metal ledges across the crags to traverse from the the ridge on top of the lateral moraine to the more moraine beyond the shelves.

: 316. The two glaciers descending from Zuckerhutl, 3507m, the highest peak in the Stubai Alps. Both glaciers are retreating rapidly and soon wont reach the lake to calve icebergs.

: 317. Going up the Schaufelferner glacier to the Bildstockljoch pass, 3116m to cross from the north side to the south side of the Stubai Alps. The glacier is perfectly safe with no crevasses

: 318. Looking SW from the Bildstockljoch pass, 3116m, across the deep Otztal valley towards Wildspitze, 3774m, the highest peak in the Otztal Alps, which is the next section.

: 319. Looking east from the Bildstockljoch Pass to Zuckerhutl, 3507m, the highest mountain in the Stubai Alps. The lovely Hildesheimhutte is out of the picture to the right

: 320. Looking east from just above the Hildesheimerhutte to Zuckerhutl. The lovely hutte is sited on the crest of a steep ridge above the tarn.

: 321. The view back up the lovely Windachtal valley after having descended down from Hildesheimerhutte which is located out of the pictuure far up to the left

: 322. Looking down Windachtal valley towards Otztal valley which lies much deeper making Windachtal a “hanging valley”. Fieglshutte is on a grassy knoll in the middle of the valley floor.

: 323. The idyllic Lochlealm was on the sunny north side of the Windachtal valley just before it entered a gorge and descended more steeply towards Otztal valley.

: 324. The town of Solden from the slopes to the east of it. This bustling town had created a name for itself in the mountain bike world and was heaving with cyclists. I was forced to spend a spare day here as I was too far ahead of schedule.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 05. Zillertal Alps

: 257. Looking down on a sleeping Steinhaus at 0600 in the morning on the path up to Keilbachjoch pass, 1800 meters above me.

: 258. The serene meadow at Keilbachmoos in the early morning sun. This meadow lies in a bowl surrounded by cliffs with a ring of craggy mountains rising above the cliffs. The pass is out of sight in the middle of the photo

: 259. Looking south from Keilbachmoos meadow with the stream emerging from it about to begin its 900m cascade down to Steinhaus in the valley below

: 260. Looking from the slopes above the cliffs surrounding Keilbachmoos to the meadow at Keilbachmoos and the mountains on the south side of Ahrntal. In the middle right distance is Marmolada in the Dolomites

: 261. Looking SW from near Keilbachjoch pass to the small glaciers and the summit of Keilbachspitze, 3034m, which had dominated the second half of the 1800m ascent

: 262. Looking north from Keilbachjoch pass down in to one of the cirques which make up the head of the Stillupgrund valley. On the right of this valley is one of the 6-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge (which I am standing on)

: 263. Heading down the snowfields on the north side of Keilbachjoch pass into a cirque which eventually leads to Kasseler Hutte. The mountains to the right are part of one of the 6-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge.

: 264. Looking across the head of the large Stillupgrund valley from near the Kasseler Hutte to Grosser Loffler, 3378m, on the main Zillertal ridge. To the right of it is another of the 6-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge.

: 265. Contouring round the head of the Stillupgrund valley and looking down its U shaped length enroute from the Kasseler Hutte (out of view on the right) and the Lapenscharte pass (out of view on the left)

: 266. Contouring round the head of the Stillupgrund valley to get to the west side to start the climb up to Lapenscharte pass which is just out of the picture on the right side.

: 267. Looking east from the Lapenscharte pass back down to the Stillupgrund valley. Kasseler Hutte would be under the mist patch in the centre right of the photo.

: 268. Looking west from Lapenscharte with Schwarzenstein, 3335m on the left with the big glacier and one of the 6-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge centre and right. The small notch centre right is Morchnerscharte which is tomorrows pass. The valley between is Floitengrund and the Greizer Hutte is down the slopes left of the grassy patches

: 269. Just to the west of Lapenscharte was a large boulder where two female Ibex were relaxing. They were the first Ibex I had seen this hike.

: 270. Looking from near the end of the descent from Lapenscharte to Schwarzenstein, 3335m, on the main Zillertal ridge. Beneath it on the distant grassy patch and just proud of the mountainside and with the mist behind it is Greizer Hutte

: 271. Looking across the Floitengrund valley from Greizer Hutte to the Morchnerscharte pass on one of the 6-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge. The Morchnerscharte pass is just to the right of the small black triangle above the mist in the photo centre

: 272. My evening companions on much of the Zillertal Section in Greizer Hutte. From the left Christian, Bernard centre and Tim on the right.

: 273. A sea of mist fills the entire Floitengrund valley in the early morning. Todays walk had to drop into it, cross the valley floor and emerge on the other side

: 274. The mist cleared from Floitengrund valley just as I was about to start the climb to Morschnersharte. The route goes up the barely visible ladder on the crags centre left then veers to the right

: 275. The ladder to get up the crags was just an ordinary aluminium ladder from a DIY store which was bolted and tied to the rock with steel cables

: 276. Nearing the top of Morschnerscharte after the 1000m climb and looking back over the cleared Floitengrund valley with Greizer Hutte in the distant centre left on the other side and Grosser Loffler rising behind it

: 277. Looking west down into Zemmgrund valley from Morschnerscharte pass with the Berliner Hutte just visible lower center right. The biggest hill is Grosser Moseler, 3480m, in the centre with another of the 6-7 side ridges of the Zillertal range emanating from it

: 278. The large Berliner Hutte is over 120 years old and sits at the confluence of 3 glaciated valleys. The mountain above it is Grosser Moseler, 3480m, and centre right is the mountain of Schonbichler, 3134m which is the route over the side ridge to the next valley for tomorrow

: 279. The grand dining room in the Berliner Hutte was quite breath taking with its 6 meter high ceilings, chandeliers and tall south facing windows looking towards the glaciers of Zillertals main ridge.

: 280. Looking back to the Berliner Hutte having crossed all 3 of the glacial streams which meet in the valley and just about to start the climb to Schonbichlersharte pass over the side ridge. In the top right is yesterday’s Morschnerscharte pass above 2 snow patches

: 281. Looking up the slabs below the Waxeggkees glacier with Grosser Moseler, 3480m, centre right. About 200 years ago the glacier would have entirely cover these slabs and perhaps extended to where I am standing

: 282. Looking NE from the top of the lateral moraine across the void left by the retreated glacier to the opposing lateral morain in the other side. The Berliner Hutte is just visible centre left.

: 283. Walking up the grassy slopes under the cliff just before the path doubles back to climb up a sloping shelf to reach the top of the cliffs. Just to the right of the glacier is Schonbichler Horn

: 284. Looking over to Grosser Moseler, 2480m, across the Waxeggkees glacier from the top of the cliffs on the east ridge of Schonblicher

: 285. A Golden Eagle, Aquila chrysaetos, climbing in a thermal and gaining height near the summit of Schonblicher Horn

: 286. A party coming down the east side of Schonblicher just below the summit. The rock here was shattered so large pillars protruded from the surface giving it a spiky surface.

: 287. On the summit of Schonblicher, 3134m, with Grosser Moseler in the background on the right. Waxeggkees Glacier is the nearest glacier and beyond the line of cliffs on the left is Hornkees Glacier

: 288. A close-up of Grosser Moseler from the summit of Schonblicher. The dark bare mountains in the foreground are the start one of the 5-7 side ridges emanating from the main Zillertal ridge with the rest of the side ridge continueing behind me.

: 289. Looking west from Schonblicher Horn towards Furtschaglhaus cabin which is at the confluence of 2 glacial valleys and at the head of the larger Schlegeisgrund valley. The mountain in the back is Hochfeiler, the highest and most westerly of Zillertal’s big mountains.

: 290. Looking back up to Schonblicher Horn (centre) and the Schonblicherscharte pass (centre right) from the west side half way down to Furtschaglshaus cabin.

: 291. Half way down from Schonblicher Horn to Furtschaglshaus cabin there is a great view of the Grosser Moseler and the glaciers on it’s west flank. The route to the summit goes up the ridge centre right emerging from the glacier

: 292. Looking down onto Furtschaglshaus cabin with the highest mountain in the Zillertal range, Hochfeiler 3509m, rising behind it. Furtschaglshaus cabin is at the head of the Schlegeisgrund valley descending on the right.

: 293. Leaving Furtschaglhaus and heading down the slope into Schlegeisgrund valley with Hochfeiler, the highest mountain in the Zillertal range watching over me.

: 294. Heading down Schlegeisgrund valley towards Schlegeisspeicher lake with Olperer, 3475m, the highest mountain in the Tuxer Alps to the left. Olperer Hutte is below the saddle ahead just above the treeline.

: 295. The view from my tabletop bed looking straight up Schlegeisgrund valley from Olperer Hutte. The two distant mountins are Grosser Moseler on the left and Hochfeiler on the right.

: 296. Looking down into the wild cirque of Unterschrammachkar with the Alpeiner Scharte pass, 2959m, just appearing on the central skyline between the mist

: 297. The summer farms and haylofts at the end of the road by Fibneralm in the Valsertal valley. It was just below these lovely old wooden buildings that Touristenrast Hutte lies.

: 298. One of the hamlets on the northside of Valsertal valley showing the barn and house under one roof surrounded by pastures. This is the hamlet of Franzeler.

: 299. The hotel Wildermann was my home for 3 nights while staying in Steinach. Despite its grand appearence it was surprisingly modest inside and a bit worn out or end of day.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 04. Hohe Tauern Alps

: 202. Looking down into the bowl around which Bad Gastein is build with its large condominium style hotels with alpine style

: 203. The walk up beside the large stream between Bad Gastein and Bockstein was surprisingly rural given its proximity to Bad Gastein

: 204. From the parking place at the end of the in Sportgastein the route went up the Siglitztal valley and then up the steep headwall beside the cascade

: 205. The final grassy slopes up to the ridge on which the Neidensachsenhaus cabin was sited

: 206. Leaving Naturfruende Neubau cabin and heading up the grass and boulder slopes towards the main ridge line of the Hohe Tauren

: 207. Climbing up the boulderfields and looking across to the Goldbergkees glacier and the mountain of Schareck, 3123m, in the distance

: 208. Clambering up the boulders to reach the tiny, but over 120 year old, cabin of Rojacherhutte

: 209. Above the Rojacherhutte cabin the ridge up to Hohen Sonblick started to become much steeper

: 210. Looking down to the Goldbergkees glacier from well up on the east ridge of Hohen Sonnblick just before the mist descended and obscured all

: 211. High up on the east ridge of Hohen Sonnblick with the steep snow fields one side of the arete and the north wall of the mountain on the other

: 212. Looking west across the Kleinfleisskess glacier from Hoher Sonnblick, 3105m. The route across it goes into the V shape of sun and then to the left over the bulge

: 213. Looking east along the main ride of the Hohe Tauern past Goldbergkees glacier on the right and the mountain of Schareck, 3123m, highest on the left

: 214. Looking east back up the Kleinfleisskees glacier to Hoher Sonnblick on top of the pyramid in the center. There are crevasses in the glacier but on the usual route down they are very narrow.

: 215. Looking west down the side valley from the end of the Kleinfleisskees glacier to the main valley of Molltal where Heiligenblut lies at the bottom with Grossglockner centre right looming over it.

: 216. Approaching the small town rural alpine town of Heiligenblut with its scatter of old farms on the valley sides under the gaze of Grossglockner, 3796m, the highest mountain in Austria

: 217. The tall elegant church in Heiligenblut is about 700 years old. It lords over the valley from the prow on which it was built

: 218. Looking back down to Molltal valley where Heiligenblut lies from near Trogaalm. In the distance is the Kleinfleisskees glacier I cam down from Hoher Sonnblick a couple of days ago

: 219. The small steep drove road hacked into the side of the ravine at the entrance into Leitertal valley

: 220. Saxifrage growing on the dry south facing rocky ground in the alpine Leitertal valley

: 221. Mountaain Avens, Dryas octopetala, thrive in colder alpine and arctic climes and has a geological timeframe named after them corresponding to a mini ice age of 1500 years.

: 222. Ther upper Leitertsl valley was a hidden Shangri-la with 2 cow pastures and cabins. It was teeming with marmots

: 223. Frank, another longer distance hiker who was juust finishing the “Hoch und Heilig” trip which last about 10 days.

: 224. Descending the 700 meters from Glorer hutte to Lucknerhaus lodge. In the middle of the picture much firther down is the town of Kals

: 225. This Great Marsh Thistle, Carduus personata, was remarkable in that black aphids were being protected by ants who were milking the honeydew they produced. The ants were farming the aphids.

: 226. The European Roe Deer, Capreolus capreolus, with a fawn in the long grass where the fawn was hiding

: 227. The.Spotted Gentian, Gentiana punctata, was becoming more and more prominent as the summer unfolds. Here the wasa field of them at Greibichi between Luckerhaus and Kals

: 228. Coming down out of the mist from Greibichi there was an atmospheric view up Dorfertal where the big mountains of the Glockner massif remained hidden in the mist

: 229. A selection of orchids which were plentiful on todays walk. Each different orchid thrived under different conditions with many overlapping each others prefered domain

: 230. Heading down from the Kals-Matreier-Torl towards Matrei in the valley far below. In the distance is the Virgental valley and the clould covered peaks of the Gross Venediger massif

: 231. The farm at Presslab is one of many high up on the hillside above Matrei.

: 232. The Gasthaus Obwexer is a very friendly family run guesthouse in the heart of the pretty town of Matrei

: 233. The church in Matrei was solid with a modest tower but had a lavishly decorated interior and fabulous organ

: 234. One of the many pretty houses in Matrei. There seemed to be a local pride in keeping the town beautiful.

: 235. Some of the farmhouses with the adjacent barns on the valley floor below Matrei at the confluence of the Isel and Tauernbach rivers

: 236. The central square of the lovely small town of Virgen where there was a local festival and band

: 237. A few of the older houses and the church in the gorgeous hamlet of Obermauern, which was like a living museum

: 238. Looking up the upper part of the Virgental valley towards the town of Pragraten spreadout on the valley floor beneath glaciated peaks

: 239. One of the old farms i nn Pragraten. The farm in the valley here were often one huge building with the house at the front and the barn at the back, all under one roof.

: 240. In the evening there was a local band playing in the town square of Pragraten also. Many people donned traditional clothes to come out and enjoy the entertainment which was more classical than footstomping

: 241. As I walked through Pragraten I met a herd of milk cows going from one pasture to another.

: 242. One of the gorgeous farms of the upper Virgental valley near Hinterbichl

: 243. The Umbalfalle waterfall on the Isel is the biggest in a series of impressive waterfalls in upper Virgental valley

: 244. The Martagon Lily, Lilium martagon, was growing in clusters beside the track in the upper VVirgental valley

: 245. The loft glaciated peak of Rodspitze, 3496m, dominated the valley on the walk up to Clarahutte cabin.

: 246. The wonderful Clarahutte had a waterwheel just out of the picture to the left to power it. The bedrooms were all on the right under the grass bank

: 247. On the way up the valley above Clarahutte there were many spieces of saxifrage, such as this Lifelong Saxifrage, Saxifraga paniculata

: 248. From near the Kliner Philipp Rueter Hutte I got some tantalizing view across the valley to some of the lower mountains in the Grossvenediger massif

: 249. Heading up to the pass out of the Virgental and into the Ahrntal valleys. The pass was called Vordere Umbaltorl at 2926m.

: 250 Looking west at the Vordere Umbaltorl Pass. 2926m, down to Lenkjochhutte, (slightly centre left) and upper Ahrntal valley beyond on the rghht and the Zillertal ridge far right.

: 251. Looking up to the greatly diminished Rotkees glacier which I had to pass under as I crossed the cirque to reach Lenkjochhutte

: 252. Just before Lenchjochhutte I manage to photograph a White Winged Snow Finch, Montifringilla nivalis, who work in groups to snatch insects from the higher alpine plants.

: 253. After leaving Lenkjochhutte I went down the lovely Rodtal valley, which is a hanging valley above Ahrntal. This is the view from the valley over the glacial tarn to Rodspitze, 3496m.

: 254. The beautiful Rotalm was at the end of a meadow with the clear stream meandering through it. In the background is Rodspitze mountain.

: 255. The stricking church at Prettau was similar in size and architecture to the ones in St Peter, St Jakob and also Steinhaus. They were nothing like other churches I have seen in Tyrol and unique to the valley.

: 256. On the Ahrntaler Sonnenwege between St Peter and St Jakob as it passed through meadows, fir forest and beautiful old farms

Main Alpine Divide. Section 03. Niedere Tauern Alps

: 108. Climbing the ridge to Kliener Bosenstein with Grosser Bosenstein next to it and Scheibelsee in the bottom of the bowl.

: 109.Looking up the dry rocky east ridge of Kliener Bosenstein.

: 110. A European viper which was sunning itself on the rocks just shy of the summit of Kliener Bosenstein

: 111. Looking down the south ridge of Kleiner Bosenstein to the Perwurzpolster saddle and the small tarn in the sun beside which I camped

: 112. My camouflaged cube fibre tent is always useful for discreet camping. Here at Perwurzpolster saddle.

: 113. Looking back to Kleiner Bosenstein from near the summit of ZInkenkogel as the morning sun comes up.

: 114. A mother and kids chamois group with the kids having a heap of fun leaping about in the morning sun

: 115. Looking forwards to the steep NE arete of Grosser Gieterkogel which has a fearful reputation

: 116. On the ridge down from ZInkenkogel the prostrate plants like this Moss campion hugged the hillside. Many were in flower and attracted butterflies like this tortoiseshell

: 117. Just before the climb up Grosser Gieterkogel a small herd of red deer crossed the ridge in front of me

: 118. The view up on of the cable section on the NE ridge of Grosser Gieterkogel. The cables were well anchored.

: 119. Looking back down the ridge to the prow of Grosser Gieterkogel below which the steep cabled arete falls away

: 120. The mountain of Seitnerzinken, 2164m, was one of 10 I had to climb today. It was about halfway

: 121. Looking NW from Breiteckkuppe, 2144m, to the 3 remaining mountains I had to climb as thunder approached

: 122. The alpine resort of Planneralm seen on a sunny morning from one of the pistes above it.

: 123. Part of the laughable Robin Hood Trail in Planneralm which was run by the classless Ewis Hutte. It compromised 30 rubber animals to shoot at with air rifles

: 124. The very unusual Red beakless lousewort, Pedicularis recutitam, which I found growing between pistes above Planneralm.

: 125. Towards the top of karlspitze, 2097m, the mist cleared for the first time of the day to reveal a soft alpine landscape

: 126. The romantic cosy cabins at Michelirlingalm looked very inviting on this misty day. They were in pastures just above the forest

: 127. The old drove road up to the alps was in a stony rut in the forest where centuries of cattle and other animals had gone up and down each year

: 128. The valley of Donnersbach was lined with luxurient meadows and farms which were centuries old. The village of Donnersbachwald was at the end of the public road about 2 km from here

: 129. From Donnersbackwald to St Nikolai I walked with Peter and Maria who were walking from Vienna to Nice and I had the fortune to cross paths with a few times

: 130. The working alp of Morsbachalm was a good hours walk above the village of Donnersbachwald

: 131. Deep iin conversation with Peter as we headed up the track beyond Morsbachalm and about to turn up the small path to Gstemmerscharte

: 132. The Alpenrose, Rhododendron ferrugineum, were about to burst into flower across the Alps. These were above the alp of Morsbachalm

: 133. Heading down the west side of Gstemmerscharte towards the Solktal valley in the forest far below

: 134. Looking up into the bowl below Gstemmerscharte pass to the pretty alpine cottage and the beyond to where the sheep or goats grazed

: 135. Heading down through the large firs on the steep path towards the Solktal Valley

: 136. The massive squat chalet type guesthouse of Gamsjager in St Nikolai was centuries old

: 137. Peter and Maria continuing westwards before the rain started for the day, while I had a rest day

: 138. The small church in St Nikolai with its onion shaped roof on the tower which was clad in wooden shingles

: 139. Inside the church at St Nikolai. The decor was surprisingly opulent for a church in such a small village.

: 140. Heading up the pastoral Braualmbach valley with the Braualm behind the cows

: 141. After climbing for well over an houur from the Braualmbach valley I reached Hohenseealm beside the deep lake

: 142. Looking back down the north side of the Schimpelscharte pass to the Schimplesee lake

: 143. Looking down the south side of the Schimplescharte towards the Rudolf Schoder Hutte and Etrachsee

: 144. A small copse of the Arolla Pines which were growing at abouut 1900m, even higher than the larch

: 145. The delightful cabins of the alm on the northside of Etrachsee lake, which is hidden in the trees beyond

: 146. Landhaus Etrachsee is a guesthouse in the old cabin, barn and boathouse of the original alm. This is the boathouse of the wonderful homestead

: 147. The cows at Obere Trattenbaueralm were hoping for some salt or another treat and crowded round me.

: 148. The beautiful cabins at Obere Trattenbaueralm were some of the nicest I had seen so far.

: 149. Crossing the high north facing bowl between Hubenbauertorl pass and Hinterkarscharte pass when the mist cleared to reveal an alpine landscape

: 150. Loooking back to the Hinterkarscharte from Rantentorl pass across the Rantenalm alpine meadows

: 151. Looking up at the steep valley side of the valley where the Innere and Vordere Neualm meadows were

: 152. Coming down into the Kleiner Solkerobertal and looking over the dark waters of Schwarzensee

: 153. The absolutely beautiful Zauneralm was cluster of 8-9 cabins and barns, some 200 years old

: 154. Inside Matilda’s kiitchen at Zauneralm with the gleaming polished range and a batch of the most recent Styrian crumbly cheese just drying off before it starts to mature in the store room.

: 155. Two of the 11 milk cows coming out of the milking parlour after they have been milked

: 156. Matilda on the lawn in from of alm’s cabin. The kitchen is in the middle and the bedrooms are up the small external stairs behind her..

: 157. Franz in the milking parlour with the milk cows who were happy eating fodder while being milked. Franz was attentive to his cows

: 158. The dairy at Zauneralm. On the right cheese milk and butter cream are separated. Left is is butter churner. On the far wall is the cheese cooker and and presses

: 159. A last mornful look back to the idyllic Zauneralm as I headed up the mountain again

: 160. Franz’s sister and brother in law ran Lassachalm where the non milking cows and bullocks grazed in the higher side valley

: 161. Some of the non milking cows in Lassachalm just before the climb up to Trattenscharte started in earnest

: 162.. The curious Houseleek is a type of sedum which thives on dry stoney ground where other plants cannot compete

: 163. Looking back down to the hunters cabin and the valley below where Lassachalm sat in the meadow surrounded by firs

: 164. On the ridge between the hanging valleys were Lassachalm and Sturmmeralm were respectively located

: 165. A herd of sheep surprised me on the snowy plateau just I was about to cross the snowy Trattenscharte Pass in the middle of the picture

: 166. Loooking back to the snowy plateau where the sheep ambushed me from the final meters up to Trattenscharte pass.

: 167. At the top of the Trattenscharte pass looking at the route south towards the lakes and eventually Prientalerhutte

: 168. The small tarn of Trattensee was still largely covered in snow and ice. It was just before the descent started in earnest.

: 169. The start of the descent down to Prientalerhutte. In the middle distance is the climb up to Klafferkessel plateau for tomorrow.

: 170. Looking down on the Klafferkessel plateau from the summit of Greifenberg.

: 171. Some of the 4 foals in the buttercup filled meadow just above Gollinghutte and before the climb up to Gollingscharte

: 172. The view back down to the meadow with the foals below which is the Gollinghutte, from the steep climb up to Gollingscharte

: 173. The view down the snowfield on the west side of Gollingscharte was an easy descent to the valley below where Landawirseehutte lies

: 174. Landawirseehutte is a cosy huutte run by a cool crew in alpiine meadows at nearly 2000m

: 175. The view west from the Trockenbrotscharte pass between Landawirseehutte and Keinprechthutte towards the latter

: 176. The final metres up to Rotmandisp on the pass between Keinprechthutte and Giglachseehutte. The biggest mountain is Hochgolling to the east and to the left of it is the snowfield down from yesterdays pass

: 177. The view west from Rotmandisp looking down to the two Giglachsee lakes

: 178. On the grassy summit of Rotmandisp I came across a herd of sunbathing sheep who were spreadeagled and drowsy

: 179. A cushion pf Moss Campion, Silene aculis, growing on a limestone rich boulder up to Akarscharte pass

: 180. Looking east back down to the Giiglachsee lakes and Hutte and then beyond to the Schladminger Tauern where I had spent the last week hiking

: 181. Looking west from the Akarscharte pass towards the Hohe Tauern in the very far distance which I will be skirting around the south side of in a week.

: 182. Looking back to the Akarscharte with the Steirsche Kalkspitze on the left and the Lungauer Kalkspitze on the right. In the foreground is the spring diverted into Oberhuttensee

: 183. The meadow at the bottom of Obertauern where tranquility returned after the dormant ski resort

: 184. Sudwiener hutte is an Alpenverien lodge which is well over 100 years old.

: 185. The alm near Sudwiener Hutte has 25 milk cows who go into the barn in single file and milk goes into containers on the trailer beyond the door

: 186. Looking back down to meadows around the alm and Sudweinerhutte from the path heading south

: 187. Looking west from Taferlscharte pass across the huge alpine bowl between this pass and the Mosermandl mountain in the distance

: 188. Looking back to Taferlscharte Pass in the far distance over a beautiful copse of Arolla pines

: 189. On the path towards the dormant alp of Jakobsalm with the impressive Weisseck mountain in the distance

: 190. The large barn at Jakobsalm is sometimes open catering for tourists and and other years it remains closed.

: 191. The flowers in the limestone rich landscape between Jakobsalm and Franz Fisher Hutte were full of flowers

: 192. On the ridge just befor Franz Fischer Hutte there is a view west ti some of the highest mountains in Austria in the Hohe Tauern range

: 193. Looking back to the lovely Franz Fischer Hutte with the backdrop of the craggy Mosermandl in the background

: 194. Looking east from Weissgrubenscharte to the mountains around Franz Fischer Hutte

: 195. Tappenkarseehutte sits in a pastoral valley with lush meadows beside the high lake of Tappenkarsee

: 196. Heading down past Karteisalm on the way from Tappenkarseehutte and the large valley were Huttschlag lies

: 197. Cutting the steep meadows with the motorized scythes with spiked wheels. Some of the meadows were much steeper than this

: 198. The village of Huttschlag was full of charm and had some refined historic villas and houses

: 199. Looking NE from the Tofernscharte back down the side valley I hiked up which descends down to the Grossarltal valley in which Huttschlag lies

: 200. Looking SW from the Tofernscharte to the resort of Bad Gastein in the middle left and then the Hohe Tauern range beyond it with its high heavily glaciated mountains.

: 201.The final descent down to the Bad Gastein goes steeply down into the spectacular Kotschachtal valley. Bad Gastein lies where this valley and the main valley meet and to the right out of the picture

Main Alpine Divide. Section 02. North Styrian Alps

: 061. Neuberg Munster and Stift from the octagonal lookout on the path up the hill to the south

: 062. The sustained path in the pleasant forest was a 2 hour climb to Veitschbachtorl, 1406m. where the route levelled off for a while

: 063. Looking up across the alps to Hohe Veitsch from Veitschalm. Graf Meran cabin lay just to the south of the summit.

: 064. Looking back from the ridge up to Hohe Veitsch towards the summer farms at Veitschalm and then beyond that to Veitschbachtorl, 1406m, in the middle distance and the Wien Hauseberge in the far distance

: 065. Graf Meran Haus was an old traditional mountain cabin with an old characterful wooden dining rooms and bedrooms. It was at 1836m.

: 066. Looking west from the lip of the plateau near Graf Meran Haus across the valley to Hochschwab in the distance

: 067. The hectares and hectares of blueberry bushes all with a huge developing crop in the fir forest between Rotsohlalm and Turnaueralm

: 068. The open meadows of the lovely Turnaueralm with its 10 summer farms and dairies was perhaps the prettiest of the day.

: 069. The relatively small Goriacheralm on a saddle was the third of 4 alpine pastures and summer farms today

: 070. The last of the summer farms and meadows today was Seebergalm where there were about 20 houses. As it was near the road it was more developed and even had electricity

: 071. Looking down Voisthaler Valley from near Florlhutte. The green meadows in the distance are around Seewiesen

: 072. Looking up to Voisthalerhutte from the depression below which was rich in flowers and in any other geology would have been a lake

: 073. Four types of primroses found in Voisthaler Valley below the hut. Clockwise from top left: True Oxlip (Primula elatior). Mountain Cowslip or Bear’s Ear (Primula auricula). European Alpine Primrose (Primula clusiana). Alpine Snowbell (Soldanella alpina).

: 074. An older stiff and ungainly chamois grazing among the trees below Voisthalerhutte.

: 075. A young and surprisingly calm marmot. They spend some 6 months hibernating in their burrows under the snow pack

: 076. In Voisthaler Valley looking west up to the summit of Hochschwab. The route up goes up the right of the photo

: 077. Looking east from the summit of Hochschwab down Voisthaler Valley below with all the snow lying in it

: 078. A rock ptarmigan, Lagopus muta, high on the west ridge of Hochschwab. It was feigning injury to distract me.

: 079. Coming offvthe west end of Hochschwab and about to head down through the dwarf pine to Hausalm and Sackwiesenalm

: 080. Looking back down to Sackwiesenalm from the path to the west. This alm sold alpine dairy products in the summer when it is up and running

: 081. The beautiful Sackwiesensee is a rare lake in this limestone landscape lies between Sackwiesenalm and Sonnschienalm

: 082. The friendly welcoming Sonnschienhutte at its best on a quiet beautiful early summer morning

: 083. A Ring Ouzel, which is part of the thrush genus, hunting for insects in Sonnschienalm.

: 084. Looking down onto the serene Senkbodenalm from the edge of Sonnschienalm.

: 085. Looking back to the beautiful undulating landscape I had crossed between Sonnschienhutte and Forbistorl saddle

: 086. Looking down Forbisalm from the upper barn to the grassy meadow and pond beside the huge boulder

: 087. The easy delightful descent beside the bubbling brook below Forbisalm

: 088. Looking down into the Hinterseeaugraben gorge from the end of the delightful section

: 089. In the foreground is my Guesthouse with the start of the old town beyond. Looming over all is the towering mine going up the mountain

: 090. Out with the old and in with the new. The comfy Salomons cannot cope with the rocky terrain and the sole is ripping off from the upper with poor glue.

: 091. Looking down on the staid, lacklustre town of Eisenerz from one of the gothic churches to the west of it

: 092. Looking from the old rural farms to the SW of Eisenerz across the valley to the grotesque edifice of the open mine

: 093. The winter sports complex in the Ramsau Valley to the west of Eisenerz included a range of ski jumps

: 094. At the end of the Ramsau valley looking up to the lofty peak of Kaiserschild. The Radmerhals pass is just to the left of the picture

: 095. Looking down east into the Ramsau Valley I had jus walked up, viewed from the Radmerhals pass

: 096. The grand twin towered church in Radmer an der Stube looked out of proportion to the small town.

: 097. The almost aristocratic villa in the village of Radmer was set in a parkland. I am sure it had Hapsburg connections.

: 098. Almost at the end of the long 1100m climb from Radmer to the north ridge of Lugauer

: 099. Looking up to the end of the valley and the pass over to Hesshutte from Sulzkaralm. The grassy headwall was covered in grazing Chamois

: 100. An adult marmot which was clearing out the old grass and relining the burrow with new grass. It let me get surprisingly close as I slowly stalked it

: 101. Looking back down to Sulzkar alp from the pass to the west of it. The small cottage and barn beside the small lake are bathed in sunlight.

: 102. Hesshutte lies on a saddle under the gaze of the huge mountain of Hochtor. It is run by the very welcoming and friendly Leopold

: 103. a small cottage in a alp under the looking tower of Hochtor, the highest mountain in the area.

: 104. At the end of the public road in the Johnsbach valley were a few large farms whose cows wwere in the fields nearest the farms and the more distant meadows used for grass

: 105. Beside the springs and wetter areas on the floor of the Johnsbach valley there were huge cluster of Water Avens, Geum navalis.

: 106. The very characterful Modlingerhutte is a large woodn lodge with a century of history

: 107. Coming down the hillside into the town of Trieben which is the end of Section 02. North Styrian Alps.

Main Alpine Divide. Section 01. Lower Austrian Alps

: 001. The sumptuous buildings of Vienna are on every corner reflecting is deep history as the capital of an Empire.

: 002. The infamous Sachertorte is necessary to build up some surplus for a long hike.

: 003. 6 packages of food, clothing, boots, maps and hygiene supplies were sent along the Alps so I would get them at 20 day intervals

: 004. Emerging from the Danube at Kopa Beach in Vienna where I started the Main Alpine Divide walk

: 005. Stephans Dom, the main Cathedral of Vienna and once the beating heart of the Holy Roman Empire

: 006. Vienna Opera House. A lot of ther big hitters of classical music cut their teeth here.

: 007. The crowning glory of the Haspsburg dynasty was the Schonbrunn Palace set in a vast area of formal gardens and arboreutums.

: 008. The main square of Perchtoldsdorf was both Bohemian and historic. This lively town on the edge of Vienna was the end of the first day

: 009. The lime green beech woods allowed enough dappled light to reach the forest floor for a sea of wild garlic to thrive

: 010. The rolling hills of the Wien Wald (Vienna Woods) were covered in deciduous trees and lush meadows

: 011. Near the charming village of Sittendorf, in the heart of horse country, was a field of sheep grazing beneath apple trees.

: 012. My preferred lunch. Simple, Quick, and Tasty. Frugal enough to have at Heiligenkreuz Monastery cafe.

: 013. The courtyard of Heiligkreuz Monastery. Unseen to the left was the medieval gothic church

: 014. The massive fortress church in the beautiful village of Neuhaus was tucked away in a small side valley in the gentle arboreal rolling countryside.

: 015. Climbing up through the beech forest on the only climb of the day up to Auf de Wurzen, 692m

: 016. Every meadow had a name, some buildings and a shrine, perhaps even their own spirituality. This meadow was called Rotes Kreuz, at about 750m.

: 017. The small path along the crest of the Spatzenwalderkogel, 750m was a delight as is wove through the Black Pines, before the descent to Pernitz

: 018. One of the old sun blackened old farms on the edge of the pretty village of Waldmannsfeld

: 019. Looking from the crest of the Durrewand ridge down to the farms and fields lost in the forest below.

: 020. The idyllic meadows of Shoberalm alp were full of lush grass and spring flowers

: 021. Arriving at Putzwiese alm and being greeted by a herd of young cows. Edelweisshutte is in the distance under the bulk of Scheeberg mountain 2078m.

: 022. At Edelweisshutte I met Peter and Maria who were also on day 4 of their walk from Vienna to Nice. We were kindred spirits.

: 023. The Edelweiss Hutte could sleep about 40 in various rooms and dormitories with bunk beds. It had large portions of simple honest food

: 024. The European Globe flower was plentiful on the meadow by Edelweiss Hutte

: 025. There were many scattered Fragrant Orchids scattered about the meadow already in late May

: 026. The Horseshoe Vetch in the meadow was providing good sustanence to the bees who were swarming all over them.

: 027. After a days rest at Edelweiss Hutte I was ready to continue and the fist task was to climb the near 900 metres up Scheeberg to the SW of the mountain cabin

: 028. Climbing up the north shoulder of Hochschneeberg looking back to the meadows of the last 2 days.

: 029. There were masses of violas of the way up Hochschneeberg which were in full flower already

: 030. On top of Hochschneeberg, 2076m, looking across the alpine plateau to Fischerhutte cabin

: 031. I came across a group of 5 chamois grazing in the forest near some outcrops

: 032. The welcoming beech woods on the path down below Kientalerhutte en route to Weichtalhaus

: 033. Crossing the crystal clear Scharwsa river near Weichtalhaus in the main Hollental valley

: 034. The popular path I had intended to take was fictitious and went right up the middle of this wall. It was a climbing route called Akademiweg!

: 035. There were a few Salamanders on the path. Perhaps they sensed it was going to rain soon

: 036. The Gaislochsteig climbing route went up under the overhang to the lower trees and then up exposed ladders to the lip of the climb in the top trees

: 037. Looking back down the Grosses Hollental canyon like valley from the top of the Gaislochsteig climb

: 038. Looking back down the small path above the Gaislochsteig climb en route to the Wolfgang Dimbacher Hutte

: 039. There were carpets of blue gentians in the small meadow around Wolfgang Dimbacher Hutte.

: 040. The rodents winter tunnels under the snow can be clearly seen now the snow has melted.

: 041. The cosy diningroom of the Neue Seehutte where I had some cheese sandwiches waiting for the rain to ease.

: 042. Looking back at Karl Ludwigs Haus as I head up the easy slopes to Heukuppe

: O43. Looking down into the Shangri-la valley from the clambouring descent down Gamsecksteig

: 044. The small delicate Rhodothamnus chamaecistus was growing in crevices in the calciferous rock on Gamsecksteig descent.

: 045. The easy set of ladders on the last of the more tricky bits of the Gamsecksteig descent

: 046. As I was going down the Gamsecksteig descent a Gams (Chamois) was going up and making it look easy.

: 047. Looking back to the north face of Heukuppe down which the Gamsecksteig descends

: 048. The old Gamseck hutte is slowly starting to age as the forest closes in on it in a bid to reclaim it

: 049. Climbing up onto the east shoulder of the Schneealpe mountain from the saddle with the Raxalpe mountain

: 050. Leaving Schneealpenhaus in the morning and crossing the lush plateau to where the cheese dairies are.

: 051. High up on the highest top of Schneealpe mountain, Windberg, 1903m, I came across a herd of 5 chamois. As I approached they retreated onto the steep outcrops of the north side.

: 052. One of the chamois (German “Gams”) on the high ridge on the west side of Windberg, the hightest top in the Schneealpe

: 053. Coming off the west side of the Schneealpe mountain towards the lovely alp called Grossbodenalm

: 054. Going up to the lovely Waxenegg hutte through a series of meadows in a rich cultural landscape

: 055. Looking across the large pastoral basin to the west of Schneealpe mountain from Waxenegg hutte where there were many alms.

: 056. The idyllic alp of Hinteralm was made up of some 10 summer dairy farms producing artisanal cheese. Many farms here catered for toutists now also.

: 057. One of the old summer farms houses at Hinteralm which was probably a good 100 years old. In the summer it also catered for tourists

: 058. Below Hinteralm in the large pastoral basin wasa damp meadow full of Marsh Marigolds which seem to be at their best now in late May.

: 059. The great Neuberg Muster cathedral and the courtyards of Old monastic buildings dominates Neuberg

: 060. The wall and pillars holding up huge wooden framed roof with 1100 Cubic metres of larch timbers made it the biggest wooden framed roof in the German speaking world.

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