Three Passes Trek Nepal Gallery

001. The Hotel Magar at Dhap at the start of the trek, This is where the jeep passes on the road to Salleri. Jhapre is 3 easy hours from here and is better if daylight allows

002. The tiny Sherpa hamlet of Sigane is a good hours walk from Dhap and has a simple teahouse lodge

003. Approaching Jhapre with the mist starting to form in the Fir forests at about 3000m.

004. The small Sherpa village of Jhapre has a monastery (Gompa) and a few lodges. It make a good overnight stop.

005. The Himalayas from Jhapre. The mountain on the left is the Numbur Himal while in the distance is Everest in the distance.

006. Mount Everest (left of centre) from Jhapre.

007. There were many gentians open in the November sunlight.They grew in the sunny glades between the rhododendrons

008. Looking NE from Lhamjue towards the Makulu Barun mountains. Chamlang, 7321m, is centre right and Makaku is behind it in the picture centre.

009. The lodges at Pikey Peak Base camp are at 3700m an allow an early start to see the sunrise at Pikey Peak, 4068m.

010. The sun about to rise over Pikey Peak at 0600 in the morning. Kanchenjunga is just visible 200 km away and the mountains to the left are south of Makalu

011. The view NE from Pikey Peak towards Everest, (in the cloud centre left) and Makalu ( distant right).

012. The Numbur Himal is nearly 7000 metres and dominates the vew to the north of Pikey Peak

013. The view to the west of Pikey Peak. In the very far distance perhaps 300km away is Dhalaugiri (left), Annapurna ( centre left) and Manaslu (centre). All over 8000m.

014. The view down to Jase Bhanjyang pass from Pikey Peak. Beyond is the plateau of Pabu Danda whicj I had to go over to get to Jumbesi

015. The viiew north from Pabu Danda into the vast bowl to the east of the Lamjura la Pass ( left). Jumbesi is out of the picture down to the right.

016. Looking down on Jumbesi from the path just beneath the monastery. The path to Ringmu heads off to the east (right)

017. The stupa by the east gate into the large village of Jumbesi.

018. The path up through the village of Ringmu, with a couple of the traditional buildings typical of the area.

019. The magnificent stupa at the top of the Taksindu La pass, 3070m.

020. The exterior of the Gompa (monastary) at Taksindu

021. The magnificently decorated gompa at Taksindu monastary. It is here the monks and Rinpoche have prayers reading from the old books on the walls.

022. The procession of about 40 Red hatted monks going round one of the stupas and juniper fires en route to the gompa for prayers

023. Looking east down the valley from near Taksindu gompa to the large village of Nunthala (centre right) and the Dudh Kosi river far below.

024. The main street in Nunthala was lined with guesthouses on each side. Gach guesthouse had a small yard or garden in front of it.

025. Ramesh lived close to Kharikhola and came up to visit me. He was one half of the driving force on my 4 month GHT trip in 2019.

026. A family harvesting millet (kodo) in their terraced field beside their homestead in Juubhing.

027. The Hill Top guesthouse to the west of Kharikhola. Beside in on the knoll above was a monastary

028. Heading east down into Kharikhola with one of the clusters of houses and guesthouses below, between the homesteads.

029. A squirrel emerging from the forest to feast on some spilt kernels of maize

030. From Thandanda onwards I came across frequent mule and yak caravans. I gave the yaks a wide berth.

031. One of the exposed sections on the trail between Thandanda and Paiya. The trail was OK for loaded yak caravans so I guessed it would be OK for me.

032. Approaching the bridge over the Paiya Khola stream along a superb trail through the forest. Porters laboured up with their huge loads.

033. Lookiing down on Surke from the spur between the Paiya and Dudh Kosi valleys.

034. Looking down the deep Dudh Kosi valley from above Surke. There was no path, farming or houses in the steep sided gorge like slot

035. A yak caravan coming down Chaurikharki village between houses and Buddhist stupas

036. A team of two oxen ploghing a field with a wooden plough in the beautiful village of Chaurikharka

037. looking upstream from the bridge over the tumultous Dudh Kosi river from the suspension footbridge over it neat Phakding

038. Looking downstream from the bridge over the Dudh Kosi from the bridge before the climb to Namche Bazaar

039. On the 400 metre climb up to Namche Bazaar through the pine trees with a yak caravan coming down.

040. Looking over the town of Namche Bazaar from the west lip of the bowl it sits in. The mountain in the background is Thamserku, 6608m.

041. Looking west up the Bhote Kosi Valley to the west of Namche Bazaar towards the village of Thame. The mountain is the north side of Kongde Ri, 6696m.

042. The stupa in the small hamlet of Samsing on the path between Namche Bazaar and Thame

043. From Thame it is possible to see the sharp peak of Malangphulang, 6573m, which sits to the east of Thamserku

044. Heading up the moraine ridge to Thame Monastary with the mountain of Paniyo behind.

045. Looking down on the village of Thame with it patchwork of potato fields.

046. The monastary at Thame on the mountainside above the village. To the left is the gompa and the monks quarters are to the right

047. The monastary at Thame is set in a superb location at the bottom of a south facing cliff.

048. The huge stupa at Thametheng on the other side of the moraine ridge from Thame

049. The Bhote Kosi river valley north of Thame was gentle and covered in yak pastures.

050.Looking north up the Bhote Kosi Valley towards the Nangpa La Pass some 25 km away on the Tibetan border

051. Looking down to Lumde and beyond to Kungde Ri mountain in the early morning on the climb up to Renjo La Pass

052. Looking up the beautiful sandy valley on the climb up to Renjo La Pass, which is behind the spur on the right.

053. The splendid view to Everest from Renjo La Pass. It is about 15 kilometres away and 3500 metres higher.

054. Another view to Everest from Renjo La Pass with the turquoise Gokyo lake under it.

055. Looking across Gokyo lake to the impressive Arakam Tse mountain. 6423m.

056. Looking west across Gokyo lake, 4734m, from the village of guesthouses to Renjo la Pass. Note the Brahmin duck bottom right

057. Leaving Gokyo to head up the peaceful valley to the west of the huge Ngozumba glacier to the fourth and fifth lakes. The mountain in the distance is Cho Oyu, 8188m.

058. Looking west across the fourth lake from the small valley between the lateral moraine of the vast Ngozumba glacier and the mountainside

059. Looking SW across the fifth lake from the start of the climb up to Ngozumba Tse, 5553m.

060. Looking east from the start of the climb up Ngozumba Tse to the 3 mountains on the south side of the tributaty glacier called Gaunora glacier. All 3 mountains, Cholo, Kangchung and Nirekha are just over 6000m.

061. The south face of Gyachung Khang, 7952m, is one of the most impressive mountains in the basin at the head of the Ngozumba glacier.

062. Cho Oyu seen from the top of Ngozumba Tse lies to its north. Cho Oyu at 8188m is some 2500 metres above this marvellous viewpoint

063. On top of Ngozumba Tse, 5553m in a bitter wind looking east towards Everest, Lhotse and Makalu (all to photos right)

064. Looking south down the vast Ngozumba Glacier from the peak. Below is the fifth lake, the forth lake is largely hidden in the shade and the Third Lake, also Gokyo Lake, is visible in the distance

065. Looking east from Ngozumba Tse peak to Everest (left) Lhotse (centre) and Makalu (distant right). All well over 8000 metres.

066. On the way back down the small valey to the west of the Ngozumba glacier and looking back at Ngozumba Tse peak, 5553m, (centre) dwarfed under the huge bullk of Cho Oyu 8188m behind it.

067. the incredible mountain of Arakram tse, 6423m, view from the NW near Gokyo

068. Crossing the huge Ngozumba glacier from Goyko to Thagnak. It was only a few kilometres but the route was quite convoluuted

069. Wandering down the east side of the Ngozumba glacier towards Thagnak in the valley between the glacier’s lateral moraine (right) and the mountainside (left)

070. leaving Thagnak in the morning and wandering up the frozen stream bed to the plateau to the east of it. This view is looking back down with the plateau behind me

071. as the top of the side stream and before I got to the plateau I came across a large group of Tibetan Snowcock, or Kongma, who did not fly off

072. Looking north up across the plateau above Thagnak towards Kangchung Peak, 6063m. It is the middle of the 3 Matterhorn like peaks mentioned 2 days ago.

073.The final climb up to Cho La Pass, 5420m, involved a 300 metre ascent up rough steps with a steel cable as an aid

074. The east side of Cho La pass is glaciated. In the path 15 years since I first crossed it the glacier has retreated hugely and lowered by about 20 metres from it previous height.

075. Looking West from Cho La pass towards the plateau behind the prayer flags and then the mountains on the west side of the Ngozumba glacier and even towards Rolwaling

076. Looking west back up the glacier towards Cho La Pass. I remember just 15 years ago the glacier went all the way to the pass and was level with it.

077. Looking west back up to the Cho La Pass (centre right) with the lodges of Dzongla just visibe on the plateau (centre left with blue roofs) Behind me is the huge Khumbu valley.

078. Looking south down the Khumbu Valley and the village of Periche. The huge mountain to the left is the iconic Ama Dablam, 6856m, while on the right is Thamserku, 6608m. Everest is up the Khumbu valley behind me.

079. The windswept dusty village of trekkers lodges called Lobuche. From here is is easy to make a day trip to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. Lobuche is just under 5000m. The mountain in the back is Pumori, 7165m.

080. Approaching Groak Shep with a yak caravan just leaving the hamlet oflodges. The main mountain is Pumori

081. Standing on Kala Pattar, 5550m, looking towards Everest, 8848m (left) and Nuptse, 7864m (right)

082. Looking from Kala Pattar to Everest and Nuptse. Everest Base camp is currently to the left beyond the black ridge. The bottom of the Khumbu Icefall is above base camp

083. A close up of the summit of Everest, 8848m, from Kala Pattar. The South Col is down the risge to the left.

084. Nuptse, 7864m, from Kala Pattar. Just visible behind the left shoulder is Lhotse, 8516m.

085. Looking up the moraine strewn Khumbu Glacier while crossing it. The mountain in the distance is Pumori

086. Looking west back down from near the top on the Kongma la Pass to the Khumbu glacier and the cluster of lodges at Lobuche with Lobuche Mountain just beyond

087. Looking south from the prayer flags on the Kongma La pass to the modest peak of Pokalde which is a little under 6000m

088. Looking east from Kongma la pass across the plateau with the lakes and onto to Makalu, 8463m, in the distance. UUnder its summit is a black ridge which leads up to the trekking peak of Island Peak, 6189m.

089. A zoomed photo of the immense Makalu, 8463m. it is perhaps 15 kilometres to the east

090. The immense south face of Lhotse, 8516m. This wall is about 3000 metres high

091. Three Kongma, or Tibetian Snowcock, Tetraogallus tibetanus, pecking the turf hillside on the east side of Kongma La Pass, 5535m.

092. The Chhukhung Glacier and icefallcoming down the angular ridge to the north of Ama Dablam mountain. Behind this ridge is the alpine Amphu Labsta Pass, 5839m. The lodges at Chhuckhing hamlet are just vissible bottom left.

093. Coming down the open hillside towards the yak herding cabin half way between the hamlet of Chhukhing and the village of Dingboche which is downstream to the right. Ama Dablam is in the background

093a. The two cosy cabins Colin had already built in the last 6 months in Dingboche with the third one on the way to the left. They are possibly the best insulated and warmest buildings in Nepal.

094. Looking up the Imja Khola valley towards Dingboche in the mid morning with Lhotse in the background

095. Looking up thr Imja Khola valley past a small season stone hut eith used as a herders cabin or a potato farmers cabin. Lhotse in the background

096. Looking down the Imja Khola valley from Orsho towards the SW and towards the town of Namche Bazaar and the very top of the Numbur Himal, 6958m, in the far distance.

097. The classic image of Ama Dablam, 6814m, from near the monastery at Tengboche

098. The entrance gate to Tengboche monastary. The monastery is on of the most important schools of learning in the Khumbu region.

099. Looking up at Thamserku, 6618m, mountain with the late afternoon sun on it from the good path between Sanasa and Namche Bazaar.

100. On the path between Sanasa and Namche Bazaar I came across 3 porters resting, each with 70 kilos of glass bound for Colin in Dingboche

101. Looking down the Dudh Kosi valley from just above Namche Bazaar in the early dusk. The confluence of streams is at the bottom of the photo.

102. Namche Bazaar from the west looking into bowl where hotels, cafes, resturants and businesses are built on terraced walkways. Khumbu Lodge hotel is out of the picture on the left. In the distance is Thamserku mountain, 6618m.

103. The Black-faced Laughingthrush, Trochalopteron affine, are common along the trails where pack animals carry goods. The thrushes search through the dung for partially digested seeds or parasites.

104. Looking north up the Dudh Kosi River from near Toktok towards the mountain of Tobouche, 6495m, which rises steeply from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu region

105. The main stupa and mani walls in the charming agricultural village of Chaurikharka which lies just off the main Everest Base Camp Trail under Lukla

106. Looking south down the Dudh Kosi river valley from below Chaurikharka. The red buuilding on the knoll is the small Surke Gompa

107. Looking north up the Dudh Kosi valley from the Chutok la Pass, 2945m. On the right hand side is t5he village and airstrip at Lukla. Surke is unseen in the side valley to the right under Lukla and still in the shade.

108. A caravan of dhzo, (half yak and half cow) resting at Chutok La Pass by Chheubas. These dhzo are going down to the trackhead by Kharte to pick up more goods

109. There is nearlyalways activity in the small terraced fields which are intensiverly cultvated. On this terrace, shortly after the barley harvest, dung and leaves from the animals are spread out to fertilize the soil

110. After the Kari La Pass, 3045m, between |Paiya and Panggom the route passed through clould frorest whose large oak tree were dripping in mosses

111. On the climb up to Panggom from Kari La Pass the route passed through mixed forest and bamboo. There were a few small hamlets of small holdings on the way.

112. The small rural hamlet of homesteads at Bhalukhop was half way between the Kari La Pass and Panggom. There was a rustic lodge here.

113. Panggom Monastery (right) lies on the hillside just abaove the village of Panggom. In the distance are the peaks that make up the long Kongde Ri ridge, 6187m, to the west of Namche Bazaar.

114. Looking east from Panggom La Pass, 3180m, over the deep Inku Khola river valley (about 1900m at the bottom) towards the hamlet Nagingdingma on the other side in a small clearing centre right beneath the Surke La Pass beyond, 3085m,

115. Looking NE from Panggom La Pass across the deep Inku Khola valley towards the 5700 metre peaks of Ratapkhu Peak (left) and Khapdulu Peak (right).

116. Heading down for 1000 metres through the hot dry forest into the furnace at the bottom of the Inku Khola valley before the climb up to Nagingdingma

117. The Inku Khola flows at the bottom of a deep gorge which is spanned by a suspension footbridge some 100 metres above the bottom of the slot.

118. Looking west from the scruffy hamlet below Najingdingma towards Silbuje on the on the sharp ridge in the upper middle. In the upper left of the photo is the Panggom La Pass, 3180m.

119. Looking west from the lowest lodge in Najingdingma across the owners potato fields to Silbuje hamlet on the spine of the ridge opposite and the Panggom La pass in the upper left.

120. The hamlet of Najingdingma in the morning with the two main lodges at the far end. The hamlet was once all Sherpa caste but more and more Rai caste are settling here now.

121. Descending down the east side of the Surke La Pass through the seasonal pastures, or Kharka, above the village of Khiraule near Bung.

122. The huge stupa at Khiraule is beside the school and a little below the monastery which had been levelled and is being rebuilt

123. Ploughing the small terraced fields with wooden plough dragged bu two powerful oxen in a homestead above Bung.

124. A small terraced field of ripe millet which is now rerady to be harvested and dried in the sun in a homestead in upper Bung

125. On many of the harvested terraced fields cows and buffalo were tethered to prevent them wandering onto neighbours unharvested terraces. Thet were fed with fodder which was carried to them from fields or from the forest

126. Every district of Nepal has its own distinctive way to store harvested maize so rodents or the weather does not ruin the harvest. In Bung and Gudel the maize was place on a rack and covered in a grass thatch

127. On the climb up to Gudel from the Hongu Khola river the steep slopes were covered in Cardomom plants. 10 years ago the cultivation of this spice was like a gold rush but I think the price has dropped now.

128. The village of Chere Tui had a couple of lodges and lay a few hours east of Gudel and just before Sanam, whose lodges looked closed.

129. Looking back to the village of Chere Tui from near Sanam on the way up to Salpa Pass. The mountains in the background are the distant Numbur Himal, 6959m on the other side of the large Dudh Kosi river valley

130. The near abandoned village of Sanam which as recently as 10 years ago was thriving is now only lived in by older people and the lodges are in hibernation

131. On the path between Sanam and Salpa Pass the route passes through a magnificent forest of old growth of Brown Oak, Quercus semecarpifolia, locally known as Kharsru. These tall trees thive around 2750m and have stunted branches, probably to reduce snow or epiphyte loading.

132. More of the forest heading up to Salpa Pass, about 3350m. Lower down the Brown Oaks, Quercus semecarpifolia, dominate but they give rise to the Himalayan Hemlock, Tsuga dumosa, which in turn gives rise to the East Himalayan fir, Abies spectabilis which thrives higher up.

133. The Bhatti is a local hotel for porters and local travellers. They are quite rustic. This was the kitchen of the one at Whakkar where I had a lunch of fried noodles and vegetables

134. Bamboos grow well in the montane forests and are harvested for making panels and impliments such as baskets. Once harvested they have to be dragged back to the villages and soaked in water to make them pliable enough to work with

135. A magnificent Himalayan Hemlock. Tsuga dumosa, on the valley floor around the seasonal hamlet of Whakkar. The bole of this huge tree was 190 cm in diametre a metre above the ground

136. A last look at the mountains of Solu-Khumbu at the sunrise from Salpa Pass, 3350m. This is the view to the NW towards Numbur Himal, 6959m, which is 50 kilometres away as the crow flies

137. Looking SE from Salpa Pass. 3350m, at sunrise down to the frosty Kharka, or seasonal meadow, to the 3 humps on the spine of the ridge (centre left) before the steep descent to Jau Bari and Phedi starts

138. A small terraced field of Oil seed Mustard, Brassica juncea, locally called Tori, growing just below Jau Bari on the long descent to Phedi.

139. A rack of maize stored at a very simple homestead below Jau Bari which is lasrgely made from bamboo matting. A few sheets of the matting is becessary to make the roof waterptoof.

140. After a near 2000 metre descent from the Salpa Pass, 3350m, the roofs of Phedi, 1450m, herald the flatter valley floor where the Irkuwa Khola river flows.

141. There is a very seldom used tractor track along the valley floor of the Irkuwa Khola valley. In 4 hours only 3 tractors amd 4 motorbikes passed me. The tractors were all hauling pipes for a small hydroelectric plant to be built at Phedi

142. On the floor of the Irkuwa Khola valley the terraced fields were all devoted to rice and the harvest, drying and threshing was in full swing in early Descember.

143. The simple lodge at Gote Bazaar had electricity and a simple wholesome fare of dhal-bhat. But the sheets were not changed very regularly.

144. The rice harvest at Majhuwaga was a week behind that of the valley floor as it was a bit higher in altitude. Here the cut rice is drying on the terraces for some days to make the threshing of it easier.

145. One of the idylic homesteads at Majhuwaga village. The rice has been harvested, threshed and stored already and the field in front of the house is laid out with drying millet heads

146. A view north up the large Arun River which starts it journey on the Tibetan Plateau. It drains the entire Makalu massif and much more

147. The tidy village of Kattike lies on the south side of the Kattike suspension footbridge which has been an important pedestrisn crossing over the Arun Nadi river for decades

148. Looking upriver from the Kattike suspension bridge while crossing the large Arun Nadi river. The idyllic village of Majhuwaga is on the ridge upper centre left of photo.

149. Despite walking on a very quiet track going through the village od Chewabesi there was a rich cultural landscape. Here beyond a field of rippening millet a family’s rice harvest is in full swing

150. Below Chewabesi the Arun Nadi river goes into a forested gorge where there is no track but just a small footpath. It is easy to walk along the sandy bank for 2 hours before the small climb up to the town of Tumlingtar

151. The Arun Nadi river is quite remote along the bottom of the shallow gorge between Chewabesi and Tumlingtar asnd there is just the occasional fisherman with a hand cast net to be seen.

152. Tumlingtar has a large runway and there are twice daily flights with Airbus ATR’s linking the small town with Kathmandu.

154. On the flight from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu the flight passes many parts of the recent hike. Upper centre left is the twin peaks of the brown Pikey Peak from Day 03. Beyond it is the nearly 7000m Numbur Himal. Everest and Lhotse are upper right.

155. In the charming Kathmandu Valley town of Bhaktapur there are numerous examples of Newari architecture such as the 5 storey pagoda style Nyatapola temple which is 300 years old

156. In another part of Kathmandu is the Patan Durbur square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is full of old temples all with royal connections to the Nepali Malla dynasty

157. Boudhanath stupa is one of the biggest stupas in Nepal and is the spirtual centre of all the various Buddhist populations in Nepal. It lies in the NE suberbs of Kathmandu

158. Pashupatinath Temple is the spiritual centre of all Hindus in Nepal. It is a large complex with many buildings and cremation ghats on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Non-Hindus are not allowed into the main temple but are allowed in other areas and the ghats.

159. The Ghats of Pashupatinath are an auspicious place to get cremated and the funeral pyres are going throughout the day and evening carrying the souls of the recently departed back into the ethers from where they came

Three Passes Trek / Gallery